Everyday Carry

Glock 43X EDC Build with Aimpoint COA and Radian Ramjet + Afterburner

I recently picked up a stripped Glock 43X upper with the factory A cut and Aimpoint COA.

This upper needed a barrel and I’ve decided to go with the Radian Ramjet Barrel and Afterburner micro-compensator.

Radian markets this combo as reducing recoil by up to 44%. But for someone like me who lives in a restricted state, this product is great as it doesn’t utilize a threaded barrel but a tapered screw to hold the comp in place. 

This isn’t my first Ramjet + Afterburner setup. I really like to run it generally, and I’m happy to have it for my upcoming 43X EDC build. 

Make sure to subscribe to follow the progress of this build. 


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the affiliate links below.

Aimpoint COA Links:

Brownells https://alnk.to/fHpTXL3

Midway USA https://alnk.to/7ftwSCy

Battlehawk Armory https://alnk.to/6TE0UZW


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Icarus Precision ACE Grip Module for the Ruger RXM: First Impressions and Installation Experience

When I bought the Ruger RXM, I fully intended to heavily modify it. With the removable fire control insert design, I already knew I was going to swap out the lower grip modules. After actually getting the gun in hand and shooting it, that decision was reinforced because I found the factory lower way too slippery and lacking in grip.

I actually took the time to stipple the stock grip, which made it much more usable in my opinion, but that was always intended to be temporary. In the background, I had the Icarus Precision ACE aluminum grip module for the RXM on backorder, and it finally arrived, so I wanted to share some of my first impressions of the product.

Currently, Icarus Precision offers the ACE grip module in two colors, Matte Black and FDE, along with two different sizes: the Compact, which is Glock 19-sized, and the X grip, which uses a Glock 17-length grip. Both of the grip modules that I own are the Compact size.

The ACE grip modules are machined from 7075 aluminum and are designed to fit Gen 3 Glock 19 slides, so the stock RXM slide is compatible with them.

These grips feature 360-degree texture that varies in aggressiveness depending on the specific diamond knurling section and where additional grip is needed most.

The trigger guard features a double undercut along with texture on both the front and bottom surfaces.

At the front of the frame are ambidextrous, contoured thumb index points that actually indent inward slightly, giving you a subtle ledge to press against.

At the rear is an extended beavertail. Honestly, this is probably the longest beavertail I’ve personally ever used. I’ve never had an issue with slide bite, so I can’t imagine that ever being a problem here.

The ACE grip module comes stripped, so you’ll need to provide a mag release spring and a Gen 4 Glock magazine release. You can transfer the mag release spring from the OEM RXM grip module, but you’ll need to source your own Gen 4 mag release. You’ll also need a slide lock and spring, which can also be transferred from the OEM grip.

Icarus also makes a dedicated magwell for this grip module, which I also own. Personally, I can fit three fingers on the Icarus grip, but my pinky still slightly overhangs by a few millimeters. My pinky actually overhung even more on the OEM grip, and I really disliked that because it felt like I couldn’t establish a solid purchase on the gun.

Again, the Icarus grip is slightly longer and the texture is significantly better, so I can grip the gun much more confidently. Even so, the magwell is still a must-have for me because it adds a bit of extra length and creates a slight curve at the bottom that helps lock my hand into place when I really crank down on the grip.

The bare grip module weighs 6.3 ounces, but you can increase that weight by another 1.36 ounces with the optional tungsten weights that insert into the two milled slots in the backstrap.

First Impressions

My first impression of this grip module is simple: it’s incredible.

In terms of grip texture, this is easily the most aggressive frame that I own. The second you grip it, it immediately leaves indentations in your skin. Again, it’s aggressive, but I still think I’d be comfortable concealed carrying it, and I fully intend to once I get a holster for it.

Icarus states that this frame should fit Zev OZ9 holsters, but there are also a few companies that advertise holsters specifically designed for this frame, so I may go that route instead.

Color Options

I wanted to address a few things that I noticed from other reviews before getting my own frame.

First, let’s talk about the color options.

These grips are currently available in Matte Black and FDE. The Matte Black is not truly matte. It’s more of a satin finish with a slight semi-gloss appearance. Still, it’s black, so it’s easy to imagine how it’ll pair with other parts if that’s what you’re looking for.

The FDE color is definitely the more unique option. Icarus calls it FDE, and I suppose “Flat Dark Earth” can be open to interpretation because there really isn’t a universal standard across manufacturers. No two companies seem to produce the exact same shade of FDE.

That’s especially true here because I’ve honestly never seen another FDE color remotely close to this one. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but it does make matching other parts somewhat difficult.

Originally, I intended to pair this frame with my Norsso upper, but the copper barrel I had for it was way too different for my taste. Then I considered pairing it with a bronze Radian Afterburner and Ramjet combo, but that also clashed pretty heavily.

For my personal taste, I decided the frame itself would become the primary source of color while everything else around it would remain black, with the exception of the small red accent from the Timney trigger shoe.

Fitment and Installation Issues

The next thing I noticed from other reviews was people mentioning that their smaller rear pin would float side to side inside the Icarus frame. That has absolutely not been my experience.

If you’re unfamiliar with the RXM platform, the fire control insert is held in place by two pins. Once those pins are removed, the insert can be transferred into another chassis.

When I first attempted this install, I honestly thought something was wrong because the tolerances were so tight. The interior coating of the frame immediately scratched up upon inserting the fire control insert, simply because everything fit so tightly.

Once I figured out how to get the insert seated, a few more issues appeared.

Again, the Icarus frame requires a mag release spring and a separate mag release. I transferred the spring from the OEM frame and installed a Strike Industries mag release.

As a side note, if you use a metal mag release as I did, that metal surface will rub against the aluminum frame and eventually wear away the finish on both parts. If you want to avoid that, you should probably stick with a polymer mag release.

I had no issues transferring over the OEM slide lock and spring.

The final part in the OEM grip is the U-shaped spring that applies tension to the front takedown pin. On the OEM frame, this spring has legs that seat into two holes. The Icarus frame does not use those holes and instead features two vertical posts.

At first, I thought my frame was defective and that Icarus forgot to machine the spring channels, but it turns out the posts are intended to replace the OEM spring entirely.

From my experience, those posts contributed heavily to the fitment issues.

They seem to provide significantly more tension than the OEM spring, to the point where installing the front takedown pin by hand was essentially impossible. Normally, with the stock setup, you insert the takedown pin upside down and rotate it into place as it seats.

With the Icarus frame, the pin only wanted to move forward at very specific rotational positions. If it was even slightly off, it simply would not move. Because the frame was so tight, I couldn’t rotate the pin by hand and had to use needle nose pliers to twist it into position.

Even after getting past the posts, the tolerances were so tight that I still couldn’t fully seat the pin by hand and ultimately had to tap it in with a hammer. I tried to be careful, but I still ended up slightly scratching the color coating, which was definitely frustrating.

Rear Pin Problems

The rear takedown pin was an even bigger problem.

I don’t know if all RXM rear pins are like this, but mine appears to be slightly flared. The ends are narrower, while the center section is ever so slightly wider. My rear pin would only insert partially before becoming completely stuck at the wider center section.

For reference, I use a very small hammer for basically all gunsmithing work, and I’ve never needed anything more aggressive. No amount of heavy strikes with that hammer would budge the pin. At that point, I actually emailed Icarus because I genuinely thought my frame might have been defective.

The next day, I tried again using a larger mallet with no success. Eventually, I had to break out a standard metal claw hammer. And honestly, I was not being gentle. I essentially forced the pin in and out repeatedly, flipping it around several times in the process. My goal was either to slightly shave down the oversized section of the pin or to ream the frame opening itself.

Eventually, after multiple cycles of hammering the pin in, punching it back out, flipping it, and repeating the process, everything finally seated correctly.

I genuinely can’t overstate how difficult this install was. Through writing, it probably sounds simpler than it actually was, but this was easily the hardest handgun frame install I’ve personally dealt with.

Ironically, after seeing other people complain about loose pins, I don’t think that will ever be a concern for me. The fitment is so tight that I honestly don’t even know if I want to attempt removing this insert from the frame again. This will very likely become the permanent home for this particular fire control insert simply because I don’t want to repeat the installation process.

Magwell Fitment

Even after getting the insert installed, the fitment issues continued with the magwell.

Normally, installing a magwell is a very simple process, but the extremely tight tolerances continued here as well. I actually thought Icarus had sent me the wrong magwell because the holes initially didn’t line up properly at all.

Eventually, after enough trial and error, I found that I had to aggressively push the magwell upward while inserting the retaining pin to get everything aligned correctly.

Even then, the retaining pin itself had to be hammered into place. It was definitely a process.

Slide Binding Issues

Once everything was assembled, most of the fitment ended up being excellent.

Magazines dropped freely without binding, and the trigger functioned and reset properly.

The only issue I noticed was with my slide hanging up during cycling. After inspecting things more closely, I believe I identified the cause. At the rear of the Icarus frame, there’s a small protrusion that extends near the bottom of the slide, almost like an additional rail section.

You can actually see finish wear developing where the slide is rubbing against this area, so I believe that’s where the interference is occurring. Because of this, the slide occasionally hangs near the end of its travel. If I ride the slide forward slowly, it can sometimes stop roughly a centimeter short of fully returning to battery.

Obviously, that’s not ideal, but I do think this is likely just a break-in issue where the contact surfaces need time to wear into each other.

Recoil Spring Compatibility

Another issue I recently discovered is that this setup appears to be somewhat picky with recoil spring assemblies.

With the factory recoil spring, everything functions relatively fine aside from the slide binding issue. However, when I tried using my stainless steel CDS recoil spring assembly, I physically could not rack the slide far enough to even lock it onto the frame.

I still haven’t figured out exactly why this is happening, so for now I’m simply running the factory recoil spring assembly, but this may be a problem down the line when I need to replace this part. 

Slide Release Design

One minor complaint I do have involves the slide release.

The Icarus frame has raised protective areas around the slide release designed to help prevent accidental activation. However, with the OEM RXM slide release that I’m still using, the release ends up sitting almost flush with the frame. As a result, it becomes noticeably harder to press once the slide locks back.

It’s not a huge issue, but it’s something worth keeping in mind. An aftermarket extended slide release would probably improve accessibility quite a bit.

Is It Worth the Price?

Finally, let’s talk about price because that’s probably the most common criticism surrounding this grip module.

When I purchased my first RXM and started researching this frame, pricing started around $450 for the Compact black version, while FDE and the larger X grip options were slightly more expensive. So yes, you’re essentially looking at a grip module that costs about as much as the gun itself.

Is it worth it?

For me, yes. Again, I knew from the beginning that I intended to heavily modify my RXM. In stock form, the RXM honestly didn’t offer much that appealed to me, especially when it came to the factory grip module, which is probably my least favorite Glock 19-sized grip that I’ve used due to how slippery it feels.

I already planned on swapping out a large number of components, so spending the money on an Icarus grip module makes sense because this was never intended to be a budget build. I wanted something excessive. Something over-the-top. That’s also why I own the Norsso upper, which will likely end up permanently paired with the second Icarus frame that I own.

For someone who simply wants a better frame without heavily modifying the rest of the gun, I still think the answer is yes, assuming the price is justifiable for you personally. This grip is wildly better than stock. Honestly, it’s not even close. This is very likely the best-feeling Glock 19-style frame I’ve ever handled. The grip texture is incredible, the contours fit my hand extremely well, and the magwell completely locks my hand into place. The additional texture inside the trigger guard and the thumb indexing points also contribute a lot to the overall feel of the frame. Even with all of the installation headaches, I still think I’m perfectly happy permanently dedicating a fire control insert to this frame. It’s that good.

The Glock 19 platform is probably my favorite handgun platform overall, and to me, this feels like the peak version of it. Honestly, I don’t think I own another lower that I’d rather carry than this one, and that’s probably the highest compliment I can give it.

I do have a second Icarus Precision grip module along with another fire control insert that I originally intended to use in a PDW-style chassis, but at this point, I may just dedicate it to the second Icarus frame instead. That’s how much I like this setup.

If you can justify the purchase price, I genuinely think this is an incredible upgrade for the RXM platform.


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Ruger RXM Custom Frame Stippling

I’ve owned the Ruger RXM for a couple of months now, and overall, it’s fine. I’ve made some changes that made me enjoy it more than stock, but I’ve brought it back to basically its stock form aside from the trigger to talk about possibly my biggest complaint with this gun out of the box, and that is the lower, particularly the grip texture, or lack thereof.

If you didn’t know, Ruger partnered with Magpul to bring the RXM to market, and Magpul was in charge of the polymer lower. Magpul, of course, makes a lot of polymer products, and their AR grips are widely used. When people ask me about the RXM grip, I often tell them that the texture is a lot like any Magpul AR grip. There are little raised straight lines sprinkled across the lower that make up the texture itself.

On an AR grip, I’ve never had a complaint with this because on an AR, you have the luxury of distributing recoil across more contact points and surface area. With a handgun like the RXM, all of the recoil goes directly into your hands, and to me, this grip texture is very minimal and ends up becoming slippery after some shooting once my hands start to get clammy. On one of my first range trips with this gun, I literally had to stop live firing and just practice drawing with it because I could not get a good purchase on the grip.

Because of this, I knew that I wanted to replace the lower, which can be easily done because the RXM has a removable fire control insert, which is the serialized portion and can be transferred to a different lower. I actually have the Icarus Precision aluminum lower backordered, but I have no idea when that’s going to arrive, so the next best thing is to just stipple the polymer lower that I already have.

Now, this isn’t going to be a full tutorial on how to stipple or anything super in-depth. I’m just going to talk about what I’ve done. If you’re interested in learning how to stipple, there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube.

To start, I knew that for this frame I wanted some deep inset borders. This would really help define the stippling and make it stand out. I’m started with a Dremel and a small round carving bit. I’m used this to make my way around the border that’s already there. To keep things simple, I didn’t add any new areas of stippling to the frame, just working within the predetermined sections.

Next, I moved on to sanding. This is a step that I feel is very project-based. From my experience, sanding is really just there to give you a flat, even surface to work on. If you have areas that sit too high, it’s going to make stippling harder because you’ll have excess material to burn through. Sometimes there can be so much extra material that you’ll notice thick blobs of melted polymer once you stipple over those areas. Because the RXM lower features such minimal raised texture, I experimented with sanding with just one area to start with.

Next, I stippled with a small round tip. I used this to work my way around the various borders. This is something I’d recommend if you’re using a tip for your main texture that’s difficult to consistently bring right up against the edge of the border. Having this first stippled border helps hide the edges of your main texture pattern.

Once the border is complete, I moved on to the tip that I’ll be using for the main texture. After some experimentation on the side, I decided on a small Phillips head tip. Ultimately, you can use whatever tip you want, depending on the pattern you’re going for.

I went with this tip in a random pattern, and ultimately, it creates something similar to a Polymer80, SCT, or Shadow Systems frame, just a bit more aggressive. A lot of that depends on how you lay out your pattern and how aggressive your pressure is while stippling.

Now that the stippling is complete, I went back and polished up the deep borders just to aesthetically clean them up a bit. This brings back a little shine to the carved-out area and helps make it pop a little more. This can, and probably should, have been done right after cutting the borders in the first place, but it is what it is.

And there you have it, a custom stipple job on the factory Ruger RXM lower. Really, there’s no question about it. This stippling adds a tremendous amount of grip to the lower, and it’s honestly a night-and-day difference. I have no doubts that I’ll be able to hold onto this gun much more confidently during extended live fire.

I hope this helped you if you’re thinking about attempting this project yourself. But if you don’t want to do the actual stippling and still want something similar, hit me up. I can offer this type of service on a new lower and get it done for you for a fee.

Email me and we can work something out: Hai@HaiHoangTran.com


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I Improved My Shooting in 1 Week with the Mantis Titan X

I’ve been shooting for the past few years and I’d say that I’m a decent shot. But this year, I really want to focus on getting better, and for me, that means becoming faster and more accurate.

As you probably know, nothing beats the experience gained from live fire, but the cost can rack up pretty quickly. So for most of us, dry fire is where we get the majority of our training. I’ve done thousands of dry fire reps, but at some point, it starts to feel like you’re just going through the motions with very little feedback on what you’re doing right or wrong. Because of that, I’ve been looking for something to elevate my dry fire experience, and the system I decided to check out was the Mantis Titan X Training System. Honestly, no other firearms-related piece of equipment has helped me improve my shooting like this device.

If you’re unfamiliar with the Titan X, the simplest way to explain it is that it’s a dummy gun with proprietary sensors built in, which are able to read the various movements of the gun.

The device itself is available in different sizes. I opted for the Glock 19 size since that’s what I prefer to shoot in real life. In the package, you get two weighted dummy magazines and a few other small accessories. The dummy gun features a Glock-style accessory rail and an optic cut that’s compatible with both RMR and RMSc footprints. One of the most appealing features of the Titan X is the resetting trigger, which means no more racking the slide after every shot.

For me, this product solves a big problem. Local ranges around me don’t allow drawing from a holster, and they don’t allow rapid fire. The only way I’d be able to practice those things with live rounds is by driving a couple of hours out to the mountains, which just isn’t realistic with my schedule. So, a lot of the drills that actually build speed and real-world shooting ability, I just couldn’t practice. Until the Titan X.

To use the Titan X, you just press a button on the slide to turn it on, then head over to the Mantis X app. The two sync up, and after a quick calibration, you’re ready to start training.

The app offers a lot of different shooting modes, each with descriptions to help guide your training. The app itself is free and doesn’t require a compatible device to check out, so I’d recommend downloading it if you’re interested in the Mantis ecosystem.

I’m still getting the hang of everything and haven’t tried all the modes yet, so I want to highlight the ones I use regularly and the ones that have been the most beneficial for me.

I want to mention that I have a spare phone that I’ve dedicated to the Mantis X app. I keep it mounted on a lightweight tripod nearby while I train. This isn’t necessary but it does make it easy to quickly check my results after each shot.

As I mentioned earlier, I can’t draw from a holster or rapid-fire at my local ranges. And when it comes to dry fire, you typically can’t rapid-fire a real gun unless you’re using some kind of add-on. So I’ve actually never done a proper Bill Drill before. Since it’s such a common drill and a solid indicator of shooting ability, I knew I wanted to try the Bill Drill mode. With this, you draw from concealment and fire six shots as fast as possible, while still trying to stay accurate and keep your shots under control.

To warm up, I usually go straight into a few Bill Drills. The app has a daily goal of 50 shots, so I’ll typically just run Bill Drills until I hit that. This mode does give you a score along with a breakdown of what it means, and across different modes, you’ll get different types of data depending on what Mantis considers relevant. That said, I don’t really rely on the scoring in Bill Drill mode. I understand what it’s trying to measure, but in my experience, I can shoot pretty poorly and still score in the 90s or even 100. So for me, the score doesn’t mean much here. I’m more focused on my speed and how accurate I am during rapid fire.

As someone who doesn’t really get to practice rapid fire, this is where I actually started learning new things with the Titan X. I’d heard of trigger freeze before, but never really understood what it was. It’s basically when you’re shooting and don’t let the trigger move forward enough to reset. Because I don’t train rapid fire, I would never run into this during normal dry fire. But with Bill Drills on the Titan X, I’ve experienced it multiple times. This system gave me exposure to that issue, and now I’m able to recognize it and adjust. To me, that’s a big deal and something I wouldn’t have picked up otherwise.

Before we move on, I want to touch on shot placement and accuracy. When using the Mantis system, you can keep a mental note of where the laser lands, but if you want to actually visualize it, you can use the app’s camera mode to track your shots on a target. From what I understand, this only works with Mantis-designed targets, which you can download and print for free. Mantis also sells printed versions on thicker cardstock, which is what I went with since I plan on using this system long term.

After Bill Drills, I usually move into Holster Draw Analysis mode. In this mode, you draw from concealment and fire a single shot. This was actually my primary form of dry fire practice before using the Titan X. Now, the difference is that I get much more detailed feedback. As you go through each rep, the app breaks everything down from the moment the buzzer goes off. It shows how long it took to establish your grip, bring the gun up, acquire the target, fire the shot, and your total time. Before the Titan X, I used a shot timer to time myself, which only gave me the total time. Having this level of detail makes it much easier to see where you’re losing time and what you need to work on. Since switching to the Titan X, I’ve stopped using a shot timer for this type of training, and my draw times are now much more consistently around one second.

Next, I move on to Endurance mode. Here, the goal is to maintain a streak of shots scoring 92 or higher. I can’t speak for everyone, but I find this mode really difficult. There’s something about it that just messes with me. Getting a 92 on its own can already be challenging, but doing it repeatedly starts to feel like a mental battle. As the streak goes on, I can feel my focus slipping. My trigger control changes, and it almost feels like the trigger is getting lighter. Because of that, I start rushing shots and pulling the trigger faster. It’s a very different kind of challenge and a solid test of consistency and focus.

To finish my training, I use Open Training mode. This lets you shoot freely while still getting feedback on each shot, and it’s where I really analyze what I’m doing. Every shot gets a score out of 100, and if you’re off-axis, the app will show how the gun moved and suggest possible reasons why. With that said, I treat those suggestions as possibilities, not facts. Sometimes the explanations don’t fully line up. The main ones I see are “slapping the trigger,” “too much finger,” or “too little finger,” but I’ve had situations where my finger placement doesn’t change at all, and I still get different negative feedback. So over time, you start to figure out what’s actually useful and what to take with a grain of salt. Personally, I like Open Training because I can use it in a variety of scenarios. For example, instead of doing traditional cardio to warm up for a workout, which I hate, I’ll walk on the treadmill while dry firing. It gives me something to focus on, mixes up my training, and helps me work on the skill of moving while shooting. With the Mantis data on top of that, I’m able to get valuable feedback and a better understanding of what I need to improve. And that applies to pretty much any situation you want to train for, whether that’s sitting, shooting out of a window, or anything else. Open Training becomes a really useful data-collecting tool, no matter the scenario.

After I finish with the Titan X, I’ll usually switch over to my carry gun with a laser cartridge. That’s mainly for practicing draw and fire, along with basic target work. I do this to reinforce what I worked on with the Titan X, using the gun I’d actually rely on to defend myself. I think this is really important and definitely something I’d recommend, because there’s not much point in dialing everything in on the Titan X if you’re not also training with your real firearm. At the end of the day, you’re not carrying the Titan X out in public, so make sure you’re putting in time with what you actually plan to carry.

After training with the Titan X over the past week, the biggest thing I’ve noticed is this:

When I switch back to a real gun, I feel sharper. More accurate. And my trigger control feels much more consistent. It’s subtle at first, and I was honestly a bit skeptical about whether the training was even working. But once I went back to live fire, everything just felt cleaner. I can control the gun better, my shots group tighter, and overall my accuracy has improved at different distances.

To sum it up, if you’re limited by range rules like I am, or you’re just trying to save money while still improving, the Titan X is a game-changer. It lets you train things that are either difficult or straight-up impossible to practice at home with a real gun. And it gives you feedback that you’re not going to get otherwise. For me, it’s become an invaluable training tool, and honestly something I wish I had picked up years ago instead of spending countless hours doing unstructured dry fire or burning through ammo without much improvement.


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I Made my own DIY Concealed Carry Athletic Wear Bottoms

Because I basically live in athletic clothing, I have a lot of interest in being able to conceal carry well with that type of apparel. So I often search for whatever new approach companies are offering for this. I guess it’s because of this interest that I’m often advertised stuff from the company Arrowhead Tactical, which makes athletic clothing designed specifically for concealed carry. You can do your own research, as they have various offerings. I just want to focus on the idea of their bottoms. 

After some research, the concealed carry aspect of their bottoms largely has to do with an internal belt loop system that allows you to wear a belt on the inside of the waistband. Arrowhead has its own proprietary belt to do this, but you can probably get away with other belts. Of course, there are some other features and benefits to the Arrowhead bottoms, but personally, I’m just not in the market to buy $70 shorts or $100 sweat pants, before any sales are applied. Especially considering that I’d need multiple for use throughout the week.

After some thought, I told myself that I can just sew on belt loops to the bottoms that I already own and be basically in the same position, while not blowing any money. So, I did just that.

Of course, doing this is dependent on having a sewing machine, which I already have. Again, the goal is to add belt loops to some bottoms. For this, you can approach this project in various ways, but after some experimentation, I’ve found that what works best for me is to use a stretchy elastic band that I already own. I actually went to the store, bought fabric, and made my own belt loops, which can give you very good results depending on what fabric you use and your sewing abilities, but personally, the elastic band works well for me because it’s pre-made, so I don’t have to do any extra sewing, and the elastic does help to fit different-sized belts. 

Again, the elastic band is premade made and all I had to do was cut it down to size. After some trial and error, I found that a 2.5-inch strip works best for my application. You can definitely make it a few 1/16 of an inch shorter, but the more perfectly sized you make it, it’s just going to be harder to get a belt in and out, especially considering that many edc belts are going to have areas of different thicknesses. To me, leaving some extra space makes the whole system more convenient to use. 

Once you have your loop strips cut out, it’s just a matter of actually sewing them in place. I went with a zigzag stitch with a very short stitch length. There certainly are other ways to tack a belt loop in place, but I did it this way with the loop flat, simply to make this process as easy and as fast as possible, because I wasn’t sure if this was something that I would even like. If you’re serious about this, you can certainly research belt loop stitching for yourself. 

If you look at some normal bottoms, they’ll usually have 5 belt loops. Two in front and three distributed across the back. For this project, I did a little more customization in terms of where to put the belt loops based on how the bottoms were already laid out and made. I wouldn’t say that my position is traditional, so I’m not going to give any recommendations here. 

During the sewing process, even though I had the belt loops precut to length, it doesn’t hurt to stop and double-check the size to make sure that the loops will actually fit your belt. I knew that I was going to base the loops around my Aegitech belt, so I made sure that I was able to easily get the belt in and out. 

Once you get all 5 belt loops sewn in place, you’re done. Just clean up any loose threads and try the bottoms out with your belt and gun setup. 

I’ve experimented with this process a few times now with external belt loops like you’d get with traditional bottoms and with internal belt loops as you’d get with the Arrowhead Tactical bottoms that sparked this whole project. The internal belt loops are going to be better looking in my opinion because you’ll likely be adding material that doesn’t match your original bottoms. So having them inside hides the mismatching material. However, from my experience, the internal belt loops are a bit more finicky to deal with because that’s just not what we're used to, and also because our belts are just not made to be used that way. So it just takes a bit more time to set everything up. But again, it does look good and not unsightly if your shirt gets lifted up. 

In terms of the idea and project itself. It allworks. The belt loops absolutely function as they should and allow me to conceal carry in any bottoms. But is it worth doing, or is it any better than some of the other products that I’ve shown, like the Leisure Carry Clip-On Belt system, or the Phlster Enigma, or any other system? Well, that really depends on how you carry. I think there’s a time and place for the various systems, and I will continue to rotate through them. I haven’t found the perfect system for me yet. 

However, I think that if you own and know how to use a sewing machine, this is certainly the cheapest approach to concealed carrying in any sort of bottoms. You just need 5 belt loops, the belt you already own, and you’re golden. Super simple project that I can definitely recommend if this is what you want to do. 


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