Slim Fit Holsters Carnex Review

I've been building a few different firearms lately, including a Ruger RXM paired with the Icarus Precision aluminum grip module. One challenge with that setup is holster compatibility. After researching available options, I found that only a handful of companies currently support the RXM/Icarus combination, which is how I came across Slim Fit Holsters.

After reaching out, I had the opportunity to speak with James, CEO of Slim Fit Holsters, who provided a few review samples. As always, receiving products does not influence my opinions, and Slim Fit had no input on this review prior to publication.

For this review, I'll be taking a look at the Carnex, Slim Fit's newest sidecar-style holster system.

At first glance, the Carnex appears to be a traditional sidecar holster with an attached magazine carrier. However, Slim Fit has incorporated several features that help set it apart from many competing designs.

Modular Attachment System

My configuration includes a firearm holster and spare magazine carrier, but Slim Fit offers additional attachment options including carriers for OC spray, flashlights, and knives. Compatibility will vary depending on the specific item, so it's worth contacting Slim Fit if you have questions about a particular setup.

This modularity gives users more flexibility than a typical sidecar holster that is permanently configured around a spare magazine.

Tegris Flex Hinge

The two halves of the Carnex are connected using what Slim Fit calls a Tegris Flex Hinge. In simple terms, it's a laser-cut piece of Tegris that connects the firearm and accessory carriers.

It's a straightforward design, but one that works well. Tegris provides enough rigidity to maintain structure while still allowing the holster to flex with the body. This flexibility improves comfort when carrying and helps the system conform to the wearer's shape. I've used similar Tegris-based designs from other manufacturers and have always found them comfortable for all-day carry.

Carrier Arms Attachment

One feature I haven't seen implemented quite this way by other manufacturers is Slim Fit's Carrier Arms Attachment system.

Instead of bolting accessories directly to the holster body, the Carnex uses a Kydex carrier arm that acts as a mounting interface. Combined with multiple mounting holes, this allows users to adjust both the height and angle of attached accessories.

This added adjustability can be useful when trying to optimize comfort, improve accessibility, or create additional clearance between carried items.

Another benefit is that the Carrier Arm incorporates its own concealment wing. This works alongside the concealment wing on the firearm side and the included foam wedge to help pull both sides of the system closer to the body.

Many sidecar holsters only include a concealment wing on the firearm side, despite the spare magazine often being the portion that prints the most. Adding a second wing is a thoughtful touch that should help with concealment.

Carbon Fiber Finish

Slim Fit offers a large selection of colors and patterns, as well as thicker Kydex options for users who want additional durability.

One thing that immediately stood out to me was the carbon fiber finish.

Many carbon fiber Kydex holsters I've owned show distortion after the forming process. The pattern can appear stretched or uneven, especially around tighter contours. On the Carnex, the carbon fiber pattern is consistent throughout the holster. The finish looks clean and uniform, giving it a noticeably higher-end appearance.

If aesthetics matter to you, this is a nice bonus.

Premium Hardware

Another small detail I appreciate is Slim Fit's use of aluminum washers. My holster uses black washers, but several color options are available.

Many manufacturers use plastic washers, while others use generic metal hardware. These aluminum washers are some of the nicest I've seen on a holster. It's a small detail, but when you're spending $150-$200 on a premium carry setup, those details help justify the price.

Customization Options

One area where Slim Fit stands out is the number of options available during the ordering process.

Customers can choose from different sweat guard heights, optic compatibility, compensator coverage, colors, hardware options, and other modifications.

Many manufacturers have moved toward more standardized configurations because they simplify production, but I personally appreciate having the ability to tailor a holster to my specific setup.

Final Thoughts

At this point, my impressions are still early. Most of my time with the Carnex has been spent dry firing and getting used to the design. I'll continue carrying it and putting more range time behind it before forming a long-term opinion.

That said, my initial impressions are extremely positive. The modular design, adjustability, dual concealment wings, and overall build quality have all stood out to me so far.

I already feel that I'll end up preferring the Carnex over my current Tier 1 Axis Elite. The ability to comfortably carry pepper spray alongside a firearm while maintaining good concealment is particularly appealing.

I'm looking forward to spending more time with the Carnex and seeing how it performs as an everyday carry setup.


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Glock 43X EDC Build with Aimpoint COA and Radian Ramjet + Afterburner

I recently picked up a stripped Glock 43X upper with the factory A cut and Aimpoint COA.

This upper needed a barrel and I’ve decided to go with the Radian Ramjet Barrel and Afterburner micro-compensator.

Radian markets this combo as reducing recoil by up to 44%. But for someone like me who lives in a restricted state, this product is great as it doesn’t utilize a threaded barrel but a tapered screw to hold the comp in place. 

This isn’t my first Ramjet + Afterburner setup. I really like to run it generally, and I’m happy to have it for my upcoming 43X EDC build. 

Make sure to subscribe to follow the progress of this build. 


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Icarus Precision ACE Grip Module for the Ruger RXM: First Impressions and Installation Experience

When I bought the Ruger RXM, I fully intended to heavily modify it. With the removable fire control insert design, I already knew I was going to swap out the lower grip modules. After actually getting the gun in hand and shooting it, that decision was reinforced because I found the factory lower way too slippery and lacking in grip.

I actually took the time to stipple the stock grip, which made it much more usable in my opinion, but that was always intended to be temporary. In the background, I had the Icarus Precision ACE aluminum grip module for the RXM on backorder, and it finally arrived, so I wanted to share some of my first impressions of the product.

Currently, Icarus Precision offers the ACE grip module in two colors, Matte Black and FDE, along with two different sizes: the Compact, which is Glock 19-sized, and the X grip, which uses a Glock 17-length grip. Both of the grip modules that I own are the Compact size.

The ACE grip modules are machined from 7075 aluminum and are designed to fit Gen 3 Glock 19 slides, so the stock RXM slide is compatible with them.

These grips feature 360-degree texture that varies in aggressiveness depending on the specific diamond knurling section and where additional grip is needed most.

The trigger guard features a double undercut along with texture on both the front and bottom surfaces.

At the front of the frame are ambidextrous, contoured thumb index points that actually indent inward slightly, giving you a subtle ledge to press against.

At the rear is an extended beavertail. Honestly, this is probably the longest beavertail I’ve personally ever used. I’ve never had an issue with slide bite, so I can’t imagine that ever being a problem here.

The ACE grip module comes stripped, so you’ll need to provide a mag release spring and a Gen 4 Glock magazine release. You can transfer the mag release spring from the OEM RXM grip module, but you’ll need to source your own Gen 4 mag release. You’ll also need a slide lock and spring, which can also be transferred from the OEM grip.

Icarus also makes a dedicated magwell for this grip module, which I also own. Personally, I can fit three fingers on the Icarus grip, but my pinky still slightly overhangs by a few millimeters. My pinky actually overhung even more on the OEM grip, and I really disliked that because it felt like I couldn’t establish a solid purchase on the gun.

Again, the Icarus grip is slightly longer and the texture is significantly better, so I can grip the gun much more confidently. Even so, the magwell is still a must-have for me because it adds a bit of extra length and creates a slight curve at the bottom that helps lock my hand into place when I really crank down on the grip.

The bare grip module weighs 6.3 ounces, but you can increase that weight by another 1.36 ounces with the optional tungsten weights that insert into the two milled slots in the backstrap.

First Impressions

My first impression of this grip module is simple: it’s incredible.

In terms of grip texture, this is easily the most aggressive frame that I own. The second you grip it, it immediately leaves indentations in your skin. Again, it’s aggressive, but I still think I’d be comfortable concealed carrying it, and I fully intend to once I get a holster for it.

Icarus states that this frame should fit Zev OZ9 holsters, but there are also a few companies that advertise holsters specifically designed for this frame, so I may go that route instead.

Color Options

I wanted to address a few things that I noticed from other reviews before getting my own frame.

First, let’s talk about the color options.

These grips are currently available in Matte Black and FDE. The Matte Black is not truly matte. It’s more of a satin finish with a slight semi-gloss appearance. Still, it’s black, so it’s easy to imagine how it’ll pair with other parts if that’s what you’re looking for.

The FDE color is definitely the more unique option. Icarus calls it FDE, and I suppose “Flat Dark Earth” can be open to interpretation because there really isn’t a universal standard across manufacturers. No two companies seem to produce the exact same shade of FDE.

That’s especially true here because I’ve honestly never seen another FDE color remotely close to this one. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but it does make matching other parts somewhat difficult.

Originally, I intended to pair this frame with my Norsso upper, but the copper barrel I had for it was way too different for my taste. Then I considered pairing it with a bronze Radian Afterburner and Ramjet combo, but that also clashed pretty heavily.

For my personal taste, I decided the frame itself would become the primary source of color while everything else around it would remain black, with the exception of the small red accent from the Timney trigger shoe.

Fitment and Installation Issues

The next thing I noticed from other reviews was people mentioning that their smaller rear pin would float side to side inside the Icarus frame. That has absolutely not been my experience.

If you’re unfamiliar with the RXM platform, the fire control insert is held in place by two pins. Once those pins are removed, the insert can be transferred into another chassis.

When I first attempted this install, I honestly thought something was wrong because the tolerances were so tight. The interior coating of the frame immediately scratched up upon inserting the fire control insert, simply because everything fit so tightly.

Once I figured out how to get the insert seated, a few more issues appeared.

Again, the Icarus frame requires a mag release spring and a separate mag release. I transferred the spring from the OEM frame and installed a Strike Industries mag release.

As a side note, if you use a metal mag release as I did, that metal surface will rub against the aluminum frame and eventually wear away the finish on both parts. If you want to avoid that, you should probably stick with a polymer mag release.

I had no issues transferring over the OEM slide lock and spring.

The final part in the OEM grip is the U-shaped spring that applies tension to the front takedown pin. On the OEM frame, this spring has legs that seat into two holes. The Icarus frame does not use those holes and instead features two vertical posts.

At first, I thought my frame was defective and that Icarus forgot to machine the spring channels, but it turns out the posts are intended to replace the OEM spring entirely.

From my experience, those posts contributed heavily to the fitment issues.

They seem to provide significantly more tension than the OEM spring, to the point where installing the front takedown pin by hand was essentially impossible. Normally, with the stock setup, you insert the takedown pin upside down and rotate it into place as it seats.

With the Icarus frame, the pin only wanted to move forward at very specific rotational positions. If it was even slightly off, it simply would not move. Because the frame was so tight, I couldn’t rotate the pin by hand and had to use needle nose pliers to twist it into position.

Even after getting past the posts, the tolerances were so tight that I still couldn’t fully seat the pin by hand and ultimately had to tap it in with a hammer. I tried to be careful, but I still ended up slightly scratching the color coating, which was definitely frustrating.

Rear Pin Problems

The rear takedown pin was an even bigger problem.

I don’t know if all RXM rear pins are like this, but mine appears to be slightly flared. The ends are narrower, while the center section is ever so slightly wider. My rear pin would only insert partially before becoming completely stuck at the wider center section.

For reference, I use a very small hammer for basically all gunsmithing work, and I’ve never needed anything more aggressive. No amount of heavy strikes with that hammer would budge the pin. At that point, I actually emailed Icarus because I genuinely thought my frame might have been defective.

The next day, I tried again using a larger mallet with no success. Eventually, I had to break out a standard metal claw hammer. And honestly, I was not being gentle. I essentially forced the pin in and out repeatedly, flipping it around several times in the process. My goal was either to slightly shave down the oversized section of the pin or to ream the frame opening itself.

Eventually, after multiple cycles of hammering the pin in, punching it back out, flipping it, and repeating the process, everything finally seated correctly.

I genuinely can’t overstate how difficult this install was. Through writing, it probably sounds simpler than it actually was, but this was easily the hardest handgun frame install I’ve personally dealt with.

Ironically, after seeing other people complain about loose pins, I don’t think that will ever be a concern for me. The fitment is so tight that I honestly don’t even know if I want to attempt removing this insert from the frame again. This will very likely become the permanent home for this particular fire control insert simply because I don’t want to repeat the installation process.

Magwell Fitment

Even after getting the insert installed, the fitment issues continued with the magwell.

Normally, installing a magwell is a very simple process, but the extremely tight tolerances continued here as well. I actually thought Icarus had sent me the wrong magwell because the holes initially didn’t line up properly at all.

Eventually, after enough trial and error, I found that I had to aggressively push the magwell upward while inserting the retaining pin to get everything aligned correctly.

Even then, the retaining pin itself had to be hammered into place. It was definitely a process.

Slide Binding Issues

Once everything was assembled, most of the fitment ended up being excellent.

Magazines dropped freely without binding, and the trigger functioned and reset properly.

The only issue I noticed was with my slide hanging up during cycling. After inspecting things more closely, I believe I identified the cause. At the rear of the Icarus frame, there’s a small protrusion that extends near the bottom of the slide, almost like an additional rail section.

You can actually see finish wear developing where the slide is rubbing against this area, so I believe that’s where the interference is occurring. Because of this, the slide occasionally hangs near the end of its travel. If I ride the slide forward slowly, it can sometimes stop roughly a centimeter short of fully returning to battery.

Obviously, that’s not ideal, but I do think this is likely just a break-in issue where the contact surfaces need time to wear into each other.

Recoil Spring Compatibility

Another issue I recently discovered is that this setup appears to be somewhat picky with recoil spring assemblies.

With the factory recoil spring, everything functions relatively fine aside from the slide binding issue. However, when I tried using my stainless steel CDS recoil spring assembly, I physically could not rack the slide far enough to even lock it onto the frame.

I still haven’t figured out exactly why this is happening, so for now I’m simply running the factory recoil spring assembly, but this may be a problem down the line when I need to replace this part. 

Slide Release Design

One minor complaint I do have involves the slide release.

The Icarus frame has raised protective areas around the slide release designed to help prevent accidental activation. However, with the OEM RXM slide release that I’m still using, the release ends up sitting almost flush with the frame. As a result, it becomes noticeably harder to press once the slide locks back.

It’s not a huge issue, but it’s something worth keeping in mind. An aftermarket extended slide release would probably improve accessibility quite a bit.

Is It Worth the Price?

Finally, let’s talk about price because that’s probably the most common criticism surrounding this grip module.

When I purchased my first RXM and started researching this frame, pricing started around $450 for the Compact black version, while FDE and the larger X grip options were slightly more expensive. So yes, you’re essentially looking at a grip module that costs about as much as the gun itself.

Is it worth it?

For me, yes. Again, I knew from the beginning that I intended to heavily modify my RXM. In stock form, the RXM honestly didn’t offer much that appealed to me, especially when it came to the factory grip module, which is probably my least favorite Glock 19-sized grip that I’ve used due to how slippery it feels.

I already planned on swapping out a large number of components, so spending the money on an Icarus grip module makes sense because this was never intended to be a budget build. I wanted something excessive. Something over-the-top. That’s also why I own the Norsso upper, which will likely end up permanently paired with the second Icarus frame that I own.

For someone who simply wants a better frame without heavily modifying the rest of the gun, I still think the answer is yes, assuming the price is justifiable for you personally. This grip is wildly better than stock. Honestly, it’s not even close. This is very likely the best-feeling Glock 19-style frame I’ve ever handled. The grip texture is incredible, the contours fit my hand extremely well, and the magwell completely locks my hand into place. The additional texture inside the trigger guard and the thumb indexing points also contribute a lot to the overall feel of the frame. Even with all of the installation headaches, I still think I’m perfectly happy permanently dedicating a fire control insert to this frame. It’s that good.

The Glock 19 platform is probably my favorite handgun platform overall, and to me, this feels like the peak version of it. Honestly, I don’t think I own another lower that I’d rather carry than this one, and that’s probably the highest compliment I can give it.

I do have a second Icarus Precision grip module along with another fire control insert that I originally intended to use in a PDW-style chassis, but at this point, I may just dedicate it to the second Icarus frame instead. That’s how much I like this setup.

If you can justify the purchase price, I genuinely think this is an incredible upgrade for the RXM platform.


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Ruger RXM Custom Frame Stippling

I’ve owned the Ruger RXM for a couple of months now, and overall, it’s fine. I’ve made some changes that made me enjoy it more than stock, but I’ve brought it back to basically its stock form aside from the trigger to talk about possibly my biggest complaint with this gun out of the box, and that is the lower, particularly the grip texture, or lack thereof.

If you didn’t know, Ruger partnered with Magpul to bring the RXM to market, and Magpul was in charge of the polymer lower. Magpul, of course, makes a lot of polymer products, and their AR grips are widely used. When people ask me about the RXM grip, I often tell them that the texture is a lot like any Magpul AR grip. There are little raised straight lines sprinkled across the lower that make up the texture itself.

On an AR grip, I’ve never had a complaint with this because on an AR, you have the luxury of distributing recoil across more contact points and surface area. With a handgun like the RXM, all of the recoil goes directly into your hands, and to me, this grip texture is very minimal and ends up becoming slippery after some shooting once my hands start to get clammy. On one of my first range trips with this gun, I literally had to stop live firing and just practice drawing with it because I could not get a good purchase on the grip.

Because of this, I knew that I wanted to replace the lower, which can be easily done because the RXM has a removable fire control insert, which is the serialized portion and can be transferred to a different lower. I actually have the Icarus Precision aluminum lower backordered, but I have no idea when that’s going to arrive, so the next best thing is to just stipple the polymer lower that I already have.

Now, this isn’t going to be a full tutorial on how to stipple or anything super in-depth. I’m just going to talk about what I’ve done. If you’re interested in learning how to stipple, there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube.

To start, I knew that for this frame I wanted some deep inset borders. This would really help define the stippling and make it stand out. I’m started with a Dremel and a small round carving bit. I’m used this to make my way around the border that’s already there. To keep things simple, I didn’t add any new areas of stippling to the frame, just working within the predetermined sections.

Next, I moved on to sanding. This is a step that I feel is very project-based. From my experience, sanding is really just there to give you a flat, even surface to work on. If you have areas that sit too high, it’s going to make stippling harder because you’ll have excess material to burn through. Sometimes there can be so much extra material that you’ll notice thick blobs of melted polymer once you stipple over those areas. Because the RXM lower features such minimal raised texture, I experimented with sanding with just one area to start with.

Next, I stippled with a small round tip. I used this to work my way around the various borders. This is something I’d recommend if you’re using a tip for your main texture that’s difficult to consistently bring right up against the edge of the border. Having this first stippled border helps hide the edges of your main texture pattern.

Once the border is complete, I moved on to the tip that I’ll be using for the main texture. After some experimentation on the side, I decided on a small Phillips head tip. Ultimately, you can use whatever tip you want, depending on the pattern you’re going for.

I went with this tip in a random pattern, and ultimately, it creates something similar to a Polymer80, SCT, or Shadow Systems frame, just a bit more aggressive. A lot of that depends on how you lay out your pattern and how aggressive your pressure is while stippling.

Now that the stippling is complete, I went back and polished up the deep borders just to aesthetically clean them up a bit. This brings back a little shine to the carved-out area and helps make it pop a little more. This can, and probably should, have been done right after cutting the borders in the first place, but it is what it is.

And there you have it, a custom stipple job on the factory Ruger RXM lower. Really, there’s no question about it. This stippling adds a tremendous amount of grip to the lower, and it’s honestly a night-and-day difference. I have no doubts that I’ll be able to hold onto this gun much more confidently during extended live fire.

I hope this helped you if you’re thinking about attempting this project yourself. But if you don’t want to do the actual stippling and still want something similar, hit me up. I can offer this type of service on a new lower and get it done for you for a fee.

Email me and we can work something out: Hai@HaiHoangTran.com


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I Improved My Shooting in 1 Week with the Mantis Titan X

I’ve been shooting for the past few years and I’d say that I’m a decent shot. But this year, I really want to focus on getting better, and for me, that means becoming faster and more accurate.

As you probably know, nothing beats the experience gained from live fire, but the cost can rack up pretty quickly. So for most of us, dry fire is where we get the majority of our training. I’ve done thousands of dry fire reps, but at some point, it starts to feel like you’re just going through the motions with very little feedback on what you’re doing right or wrong. Because of that, I’ve been looking for something to elevate my dry fire experience, and the system I decided to check out was the Mantis Titan X Training System. Honestly, no other firearms-related piece of equipment has helped me improve my shooting like this device.

If you’re unfamiliar with the Titan X, the simplest way to explain it is that it’s a dummy gun with proprietary sensors built in, which are able to read the various movements of the gun.

The device itself is available in different sizes. I opted for the Glock 19 size since that’s what I prefer to shoot in real life. In the package, you get two weighted dummy magazines and a few other small accessories. The dummy gun features a Glock-style accessory rail and an optic cut that’s compatible with both RMR and RMSc footprints. One of the most appealing features of the Titan X is the resetting trigger, which means no more racking the slide after every shot.

For me, this product solves a big problem. Local ranges around me don’t allow drawing from a holster, and they don’t allow rapid fire. The only way I’d be able to practice those things with live rounds is by driving a couple of hours out to the mountains, which just isn’t realistic with my schedule. So, a lot of the drills that actually build speed and real-world shooting ability, I just couldn’t practice. Until the Titan X.

To use the Titan X, you just press a button on the slide to turn it on, then head over to the Mantis X app. The two sync up, and after a quick calibration, you’re ready to start training.

The app offers a lot of different shooting modes, each with descriptions to help guide your training. The app itself is free and doesn’t require a compatible device to check out, so I’d recommend downloading it if you’re interested in the Mantis ecosystem.

I’m still getting the hang of everything and haven’t tried all the modes yet, so I want to highlight the ones I use regularly and the ones that have been the most beneficial for me.

I want to mention that I have a spare phone that I’ve dedicated to the Mantis X app. I keep it mounted on a lightweight tripod nearby while I train. This isn’t necessary but it does make it easy to quickly check my results after each shot.

As I mentioned earlier, I can’t draw from a holster or rapid-fire at my local ranges. And when it comes to dry fire, you typically can’t rapid-fire a real gun unless you’re using some kind of add-on. So I’ve actually never done a proper Bill Drill before. Since it’s such a common drill and a solid indicator of shooting ability, I knew I wanted to try the Bill Drill mode. With this, you draw from concealment and fire six shots as fast as possible, while still trying to stay accurate and keep your shots under control.

To warm up, I usually go straight into a few Bill Drills. The app has a daily goal of 50 shots, so I’ll typically just run Bill Drills until I hit that. This mode does give you a score along with a breakdown of what it means, and across different modes, you’ll get different types of data depending on what Mantis considers relevant. That said, I don’t really rely on the scoring in Bill Drill mode. I understand what it’s trying to measure, but in my experience, I can shoot pretty poorly and still score in the 90s or even 100. So for me, the score doesn’t mean much here. I’m more focused on my speed and how accurate I am during rapid fire.

As someone who doesn’t really get to practice rapid fire, this is where I actually started learning new things with the Titan X. I’d heard of trigger freeze before, but never really understood what it was. It’s basically when you’re shooting and don’t let the trigger move forward enough to reset. Because I don’t train rapid fire, I would never run into this during normal dry fire. But with Bill Drills on the Titan X, I’ve experienced it multiple times. This system gave me exposure to that issue, and now I’m able to recognize it and adjust. To me, that’s a big deal and something I wouldn’t have picked up otherwise.

Before we move on, I want to touch on shot placement and accuracy. When using the Mantis system, you can keep a mental note of where the laser lands, but if you want to actually visualize it, you can use the app’s camera mode to track your shots on a target. From what I understand, this only works with Mantis-designed targets, which you can download and print for free. Mantis also sells printed versions on thicker cardstock, which is what I went with since I plan on using this system long term.

After Bill Drills, I usually move into Holster Draw Analysis mode. In this mode, you draw from concealment and fire a single shot. This was actually my primary form of dry fire practice before using the Titan X. Now, the difference is that I get much more detailed feedback. As you go through each rep, the app breaks everything down from the moment the buzzer goes off. It shows how long it took to establish your grip, bring the gun up, acquire the target, fire the shot, and your total time. Before the Titan X, I used a shot timer to time myself, which only gave me the total time. Having this level of detail makes it much easier to see where you’re losing time and what you need to work on. Since switching to the Titan X, I’ve stopped using a shot timer for this type of training, and my draw times are now much more consistently around one second.

Next, I move on to Endurance mode. Here, the goal is to maintain a streak of shots scoring 92 or higher. I can’t speak for everyone, but I find this mode really difficult. There’s something about it that just messes with me. Getting a 92 on its own can already be challenging, but doing it repeatedly starts to feel like a mental battle. As the streak goes on, I can feel my focus slipping. My trigger control changes, and it almost feels like the trigger is getting lighter. Because of that, I start rushing shots and pulling the trigger faster. It’s a very different kind of challenge and a solid test of consistency and focus.

To finish my training, I use Open Training mode. This lets you shoot freely while still getting feedback on each shot, and it’s where I really analyze what I’m doing. Every shot gets a score out of 100, and if you’re off-axis, the app will show how the gun moved and suggest possible reasons why. With that said, I treat those suggestions as possibilities, not facts. Sometimes the explanations don’t fully line up. The main ones I see are “slapping the trigger,” “too much finger,” or “too little finger,” but I’ve had situations where my finger placement doesn’t change at all, and I still get different negative feedback. So over time, you start to figure out what’s actually useful and what to take with a grain of salt. Personally, I like Open Training because I can use it in a variety of scenarios. For example, instead of doing traditional cardio to warm up for a workout, which I hate, I’ll walk on the treadmill while dry firing. It gives me something to focus on, mixes up my training, and helps me work on the skill of moving while shooting. With the Mantis data on top of that, I’m able to get valuable feedback and a better understanding of what I need to improve. And that applies to pretty much any situation you want to train for, whether that’s sitting, shooting out of a window, or anything else. Open Training becomes a really useful data-collecting tool, no matter the scenario.

After I finish with the Titan X, I’ll usually switch over to my carry gun with a laser cartridge. That’s mainly for practicing draw and fire, along with basic target work. I do this to reinforce what I worked on with the Titan X, using the gun I’d actually rely on to defend myself. I think this is really important and definitely something I’d recommend, because there’s not much point in dialing everything in on the Titan X if you’re not also training with your real firearm. At the end of the day, you’re not carrying the Titan X out in public, so make sure you’re putting in time with what you actually plan to carry.

After training with the Titan X over the past week, the biggest thing I’ve noticed is this:

When I switch back to a real gun, I feel sharper. More accurate. And my trigger control feels much more consistent. It’s subtle at first, and I was honestly a bit skeptical about whether the training was even working. But once I went back to live fire, everything just felt cleaner. I can control the gun better, my shots group tighter, and overall my accuracy has improved at different distances.

To sum it up, if you’re limited by range rules like I am, or you’re just trying to save money while still improving, the Titan X is a game-changer. It lets you train things that are either difficult or straight-up impossible to practice at home with a real gun. And it gives you feedback that you’re not going to get otherwise. For me, it’s become an invaluable training tool, and honestly something I wish I had picked up years ago instead of spending countless hours doing unstructured dry fire or burning through ammo without much improvement.


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