Low Recoil Glock 43X Clone Build | Norsso Reptile XP Ported + SCT SC Frame

I just put together perhaps one of my nicest builds, my brand new Glock 43X clone.

This build started its life with the SCT Manufacturing SC frame, a Glock 43X sized clone lower. Personally, I’ve had a couple Glock 43X and currently a Glock 48 build, but my problem with the Glock frame itself is that it has very little texturing on the frame which makes it a bit slippery. I’ve always had to run some sort of aftermarket stick on grip like Talon Grips. That works but I think it’s ugly. Since getting rid of all my 43Xs, I’ve moved on to the Shadow Systems CR920X, which is about the same size but has a much better, stickier grip texture. But when I saw that SCT Manufacturing made a 43X-clone lower, I thought it’d be fun to put one together. 

Aside from the better texture, the SCT frame also has other minor upgrades like the double undercut, which I appreciate because that works with how I grip a handgun. It also has index points for the thumbs, a more aggressive beavertail hook, and utilizes a picatinny rail instead of the Glock slimline rail. Overall, I personally appreciate everything that the SCT lower presents over the 43X.

Personally, I purchased the stripped SC lower for about $50, but you can buy a preassembled lower for about $90. I knew that I was going with some aftermarket parts for the lower anyway, so the stripped lower works better for me. But overall, I think the price of this lower is the best thing about it. To get a serialized Glock clone lower, whether it’s a 43X, 19, or 17, for about $50 is just a crazy deal. Especially for one that actually provides good features and is functional. 

To outfit the lower, I went with stock parts for things like the pins and springs, but the main controls that I’d interface with, I went with Tyrant CNC’s extended mag and slide release. I’ve used version 1 of these controls on all my other 43X’s, so I thought I’d try these updated version 2 controls. So far, they feel good, so no complaints. 

For the trigger, I’m running the Overwatch Precision TAC drop-in kit. This is what I run in my EDC Shadow Systems MR920. It’s something that I’m very comfortable with, I think it looks great, and it's probably my favorite trigger for the price.

Moving to the star of the show and the upper assembly, we have the Norsso Reptile XP slide. I’ve always been a bit on the fence about the Reptile line of slides from Norsso. They were never really my favorite looking, that’s why I’ve always bought the Norsso Piranha slide. But man, in hand, this is one of the sickest slides I’ve ever seen. It’s so aggressively looking but also very functional. The slide milling designs work so well for racking from the front or rear serrations. Then up top, we get two side ports which match perfectly with the Norsso C Port barrel. Aside from looking insane, the ports should help to reduce felt recoil, a byproduct of just shooting such a small gun and lightweight gun. This is another reason why I never really liked the 43X. It’s just overly harsh for my taste, which is again why I switched to the Shadow Systems CR920X. I do think it has a bit less recoil> It’s nothing mind-blowing, but I do feel a difference. This is partly due to the much better grip texturing. I’m currently running the Radian Ramjet and Afterburner combo in my Shadow Systems MR920, and I love it. I want to run the same setup on the CR920X. Radian has announced such a thing but at this point, it’s basically vaporware because they keep pushing the product back. Since that’s not coming out anytime soon, having this ported Norsso build is going to be a good alternative. 

Lastly, I have the Holosun EPS Carry MRS green dot. The EPS carry is kind of the go-to for smaller guns at this point. This is the first one that I own, but I don’t doubt that it’ll function just fine for EDC, considering the quality of all the other Holosuns that I own and how vetted this optic is. 


I was able to take this build to the range and live fire it with about 300 rounds. 250 rounds of Federal American Eagle 115gr and 50 rounds of Federal American Eagle 147gr. These are basically the only two range ammo that I shoot, so that’s what I used for my testing. 

In terms of reliability, I had one malfunction. A failure to feed. I wish I had a reason for this, but it is what it is. I’m kind of surprised at how flawless the build ran otherwise. It is ported and I’m running an OEM normal recoil spring with normal stock weight. Not tuned or anything and it ran just fine at both the extreme ends of everyday 9mm bullet weights, 115gr and 147gr. For me, I’m happy with the reliability. 

For the upper itself. In terms of function, I think it’s great. Again, the milling and serrations on this upper are extremely functional and grippy, but not so aggressive like the Piranha slide that your fingers can get cut up on the sharp corners. Everything here works beautifully. 

When it comes to the porting aspect of this upper, I would also say that it works great. On this range trip, I shot both the Norrso build and my Shadow Systems CR920X. This was the comparison that I most cared about because I do EDC the CR920X quite a bit, so I wanted to know if the porting reduces felt recoil or not. I would say that it certainly does. It’s not like a night and day difference where recoil is completely eliminated or anything like that, but it is less. Personally, I felt enough of a difference that I put the Norsso upper on my CR920X lower to see how’d that would work in case I wanted to just EDC that setup moving forward. One thing that I do want to point out is that with the Norsso upper and the ports, I feel that the setup ran softer with 115gr ammo, which is why I shot so much more of it than 147gr.  

When it comes to the lower, there’s good and bad. Personally, I ride the meat of my left hand pretty high on the grip, and with slimline guns, I’ve always pinned the slide release too hard, causing it not to lock back after the last round. Surprisingly, this was not a problem with the SCT lower. Extra surprising because of the extended Tyrant slide release, considering that it’s one of the furthest sticking out slide releases that I’ve ever used. 

For the bad, I personally think that this lower could be grippier. The main side panels are basically the same stippling texture as that of a Polymer 80 lower, which is probably my favorite, but there isn’t enough of it. I’d rather have the stippling around the entire grip rather than just the sides. The horizontal lines aren’t doing it for me and the smooth indented area on the sides of the grip doesn’t help either. Again, in comparison with the Shadow Systems CR920X lower, which I used to compare with the SCT on this range trip, the CR920X is about the same size but was less slippery because of all the extra texture. 

My other complaint with this lower would be with the mag opening chamber, in that it doesn’t drop free with Shield Arms S15 mags. To me, these are basically the standard that manufacturers should work around. Obviously, make the stock Glock 10-round mags work, but so many of these S15 mags have been sold and they are so synonymous with the 43X platform that all manufacturers should make their lowers work with these mags perfectly. The fact that the mag doesn’t drop free greatly reduces the appeal of this lower for me, just because it makes mag change drills much less practical in a sense. That alone would make me not EDC this lower and that’s a shame. 

Something else to note about S15 mags in this lower is that this combo leaves a little gap at the bottom of the grip. That’s not a functional problem, just aesthetically a bit ugly. I personally ordered the SCT magwell that would work with this lower to hopefully fix the problem. 

So let’s sum it up. The Norsso upper is a win for me. So much so that I’m going to keep testing it out, and if all does well, I might swap it over on my CR920X lower because it does offer enough felt recoil reduction that I would want to EDC it. On the other hand, with the SCT lower, aside from the other complaints, the fact that it doesn’t drop free an S15 mag is a problem for me and I can’t EDC this lower. It’s going to be another range toy lower. 


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the affiliate links below.

Norsso N43BN Reptile XP Slide for G43/43X
https://norsso.com/slides/n43bn-reptile-xp-for-g43/

Norsso N43 9mm C Port Barrel
https://norsso.com/barrels/n43-9mm-c-port-barrel/

SCT Manufacturing - SCT 43X SUB COMPACT ASSEMBLED POLYMER FRAME
https://alnk.to/8tSD0Pv

SCT Manufacturing - SCT 43X SUB COMPACT STRIPPED POLYMER FRAME
https://alnk.to/2uKRF6C

SCT Manufacturing - SCT Billet Magwell For SCT SC Polymer Frame Black
https://alnk.to/aARIMIJ

Holsun EPS Carry MRS Green Dot
https://alnk.to/hDu21lo

TYRANT CNC - EXTENDED SLIDE RELEASE FOR GLOCK® 43/43X/48
https://alnk.to/8ENnZIK

TYRANT CNC - GLOCK® 43X/48 EXTENDED MAGAZINE RELEASES
https://alnk.to/9IhVSCs

Overwatch Precision TAC Drop In Kit
https://overwatchprecision.com/store/glock/drop-in-kits/


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Budget Glock 19 Clone Build (Under $400) | Brownells Slide + SCT 19 Frame

I’m the type of person who likes to personalize everything and you can definitely tell if you see the handguns that I own. Some of them are pretty over the top considering where they started. But I recently wanted to do a budget-friendly build. Something that’s relatively affordable but still looks good and functions well. I’m a big Glock 19 clone guy, so that’s what I wanted to build, a budget-friendly Glock 19 clone. 

This all started when I came across the SCT lowers. These have been around for a while. They offer some upgrades over the regular Glock design, like better grip texture and double undercuts, but for my purposes, the appealing thing about these lowers is that they cost about $50 for the stripped version. You can buy another version with the lower parts already installed and that’s about $90. I went with the stripped version because that’s all that I could find locally. But luckily, I was able to get the lower parts kit from Brownells for $31, so parting it out was cheaper than buying the assembled lower in my case. I’ve never tried this lower parts kit before, so I have no idea how reliable it is. We’ll have to figure that out later during live fire. 

Moving to the upper assembly, I actually already made a whole video dedicated to this upper so check that you if you want more details, but this is the Brownells Premium Slide with the top window cut, and this is important because I also purchased the slide completion kit from Brownells, which came with a ported barrel. Again, watch the dedicated video but considering what I paid for the upper parts kit, it’s just insane that I got a barrel with it, let alone a pretty decent look ported barrel. 

Now, if you haven’t noticed, this entire build is basically from Brownells. The only thing that I didn’t get from them is the stripped lower. And I promise you, Brownells does not sponsor this build. I paid for all this stuff. I just bought all the parts from Brownells because they had the cheapest parts around when I was putting this build together. And again, I’m trying to do a budget-friendly build, but I’m not scouring for the cheapest parts possible from unknown sources and possibly have a constant malfunctioning paperweight. I wanted something cheap enough and from a more reputable brand, and hopefully I’m going to put together something decent. Of course, Brownells has been around for a long time and is well known for making Glock slides and barrels, so there’s some confidence there. I think the main worry is going to come from the super cheap aftermarket internal parts everywhere else. 

After assembling everything, first impression is not great. The upper assembly is noticeably tight, but of course, that can also be attributed to the lower and its rails. I’ve played with this setup a lot. Dry firing and just racking it, but I often still run into situations where the slide doesn’t fully go into battery or the trigger doesn’t actually reset when I rack the slide. When it was all freshly assembled, oftentimes the slide had to be racked two or three times before the trigger would actually reset. But it’s definitely getting better. It’s at a point where the trigger resets every time, but the slide is still getting caught up. I’ve never seen this type of trigger malfunction before, so again, first impressions are not great. I’m going to keep racking this slide like crazy in hopes that things wear down and tolerances become greater before I hit the range. 


I was able to take this build out and test it with live rounds. At this point, it’s been shot about 400 or so rounds, with Federal American Eagle 115gr and 147gr. I didn’t mention this earlier, but I’m running the Osight C green dot on this slide.

When I first started shooting this build, the malfunctions came pretty quickly. I think it malfunctioned after the very first round, when I was zeroing my optic. And that was prevalent over the first 2 mags and 20 or so rounds. I was mainly getting failure to feed and failure to eject. But after the first two mags, things did get a lot better, to the point where I was only getting one malfunction after maybe 3 or 4 mags. But again, the malfunctions really slowed down and it’s pretty obvious that this is a case of the gun just needing to be broken in. 

Earlier, I mentioned that there was a problem with the slide not going into battery and that’s no longer a thing. Even if I try to ride the slide really slowly, it just seats perfectly every time. 

Again, I mentioned that I shot Federal American Eagle 115gr and 147gr which are my primary range ammo. Between the two, I would say that this Brownells ported setup behaves like my other comp or ported setups in that I do feel a noticeable difference between the two grains, with 115gr having noticeably less felt recoil. 

And also like other ported setups that I have, this thing gets dirty pretty quickly. Interestingly,  I would say that this setup runs hotter than the other ported setups that I have. Not so crazy hot that I can’t rack the slide, but it was definitely getting there. 

One thing that I do want to point out is that the black nitride coating that Brownells went with on the barrel kind of sucks. It’s wearing pretty noticeably and is no doubt the fastest that I’ve seen a barrel coating wear off. But again, the barrel is pretty cheap so I don’t know if I can really complain. 

Overall, I’m actually pretty happy with this build, considering how much I put into it. I tallied everything up and I spent $376.11 before tax on this build, not counting the Osight C green dot because I already owned that and just threw it on. Also, considering that this will basically be a range toy, one that I pass off to people who come along and don’t have any guns, I think it’s an overall win. Being that the build is ported, it’s a bit easier to shoot for those inexperienced people and I have no doubts that the more it’s live-fired, the more reliable it will become. I’m pretty happy with this budget-friendly Glock 19 clone build/


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the affiliate links below.

Brownells Premium Slides for Glock Gen1-3

https://alnk.to/90CMICH

Brownells Ported Glock 19 GEN3 Barrel

https://alnk.to/4fUkeBx

Brownells Slide Completion Kit for Glock 19 GEN3 with Ported Barrel

https://alnk.to/deAYgbU

Brownells Premium Slide For Glock & Barrel Combo Kit

https://alnk.to/6TDGWR1

Osight C

https://amzn.to/4dYjamz


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Brownells Premium Window Slide and Ported Barrel for Glock 19

I’m currently in the process of building a cheap Glock 19 clone, range toy, something that I can hand off to people who come along and don’t have guns. For this, I’ve decided to go cheap but not so cheap that we’re scraping eBay for the most obscure brands. After some research, I decided to go with Brownells for the upper assembly because they’ve been selling slides and barrels for years, and their parts are often recommended for budget builds. 

Again, Brownells has been selling slides for some time and they have an older, cheaper version, but I decided to go with their newer Premium slide for the Glock 19 gen 1-3. This one is regularly $249.99, but I picked it up during a sale for $213.99. 

With the Brownells Premium Slides, we get some updated milling and styling. The serrations are reminiscent of the standard Glock serrations, but these are deeper and are angled so that they’re more ergonomic and engage with your skin better when racking. My slide has a top port, but that is optional. 

Currently, these slides are milled from 17-4 stainless steel, only available in black nitride coating, and all come with the Zev style RMR cut with the raised posts. No cover plate is included. If you buy the premium slide for a Glock 43, it will come with a Holosun K cut. 

This is a stripped slide but Brownells also sells small parts and everything you need to complete the upper. I picked up this slide completion kit for  $78.99, and the crazy thing is, this kit comes with plastic sights and a barrel. This particular barrel is their Glock 19 Gen 3 ported barrel and it retails for $59.99. Again, I got the whole kit for $78.99, so you understand that that’s quite the steal if you’ve ever sourced these parts out. 

But if we look at the barrel, it’s not even a cheap, plain barrel. This one is milled to have flutes and a design on the hood. This is a pretty good-looking barrel in comparison to many more expensive options. The milling could be a bit cleaner, considering that you can see some of the milling marks, but it’s hard to complain considering the price point. Again, this barrel is ported and it matches perfectly with the lightning cut on my slide. 

In total, I spent $292.98 before tax on this completed upper assembly and that’s a crazy deal. If you’re going the DIY route and picking parts, this is hard to beat in terms of pricing. The only Glock clone that really compares is the PSA Dagger but PSA has their own ultra-low budget thing going on where no one can really compete with them. Personally, I didn’t want a completed firearm and wanted to mix and match parts, so this was the route that I decided to go with. 

Unfortunately, the lower that I intend to put this upper on is still waiting to clear my local dealer. When my lower clears, I’ll come back with a complete build video featuring my budget-friendly Glock 19 clone build. 

If you’re interested in the parts that I used, check out the link below where I’ve included everything. 


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the affiliate links below.

Brownells Premium Slides for Glock Gen1-3

https://alnk.to/90CMICH

Brownells Ported Glock 19 GEN3 Barrel

https://alnk.to/4fUkeBx

Brownells Slide Completion Kit for Glock 19 GEN3 with Ported Barrel

https://alnk.to/deAYgbU

Brownells Premium Slide For Glock & Barrel Combo Kit

https://alnk.to/6TDGWR1

SCT Manufacturing - SCT 19 COMPACT FRAME
https://alnk.to/6xOidNZ

SCT Manufacturing - SCT 19 OVERMOLD FRAME
https://alnk.to/faFqhMZ

SCT Manufacturing - ASSEMBLED FRAME FOR GEN 3 G19, G23, & G32 POLYMER
https://alnk.to/deB5uOR


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Boosted Safe Elite Review | The Best Car Safe?

If you travel a lot, carry expensive gear, or care about legal concealed carry, you’ve probably run into a situation where you pull up somewhere like a federal building or another restricted location, and you’re not allowed to bring a firearm inside, or you just need a place to secure valuables. Rather than loosely hiding things somewhere in the vehicle and hoping for the best, this gives you an actual secure solution. This is the Boosted Safe Elite.

Before we get started, I want to be transparent and mention that Boosted Safe did provide this product for review, but they had no say in the creation of this video and did not get to see it prior to posting.

Now, I firmly believe that no safe is completely foolproof. If you give a thief enough time, they can get into just about anything, and this is no exception. But most vehicle break-ins are opportunity-based. Thieves want to move fast, grab something easy, and get out. If this safe can slow them down, create friction, and become an annoyance, that alone makes it effective for the vast majority of real-world theft attempts. Boosted Safe has shared several theft attempt demonstrations through their media channels, and based on what I’ve seen, this would stop or significantly delay most smash-and-grab situations. For me, that’s exactly what I’m looking for.

As you can see, the Boosted Safe comes with a cover to help conceal it, and there are additional styles available for purchase. The leather-style cover that comes with the safe looks good overall, but I do wish it came in a more neutral pattern. The diamond design doesn’t blend into most vehicle interiors, and I think it can become one of those “What is that?” moments that draws unnecessary attention to the area. Personally, I’d prefer something more subtle and low-profile.

The safe itself offers multiple ways to unlock it, which I really appreciate. You’re not relying on just one method, so you have redundancy depending on the situation. You can open the safe using the included keys, and once it’s open, you’ll see several included accessories along with multiple layers of foam padding that you can configure based on your needs. One of these layers is pick-and-pluck foam, which allows you to create a custom layout to securely hold your items. Toward the front top of the interior, there’s a battery compartment tray where you insert the included batteries. This powers the fingerprint scanner and the digital combination keypad, which you set using the register button.

What really makes this design stand out to me is how it mounts inside the vehicle. Instead of relying on a steel cable wrapped around a seat frame, Boosted Safe uses your car’s ISOFIX attachment points, which are the same anchor points designed for child car seats. Every modern vehicle has them, and they’re engineered to handle serious force in the event of a crash, which means they’re extremely strong and secure.

To install the Boosted Safe, you simply align it with your vehicle’s ISOFIX points and push it into place. The safe locks itself in automatically. It’s quick and straightforward. If you need to remove it, just open the safe and pull the red release tabs located near the anchor points.

One limitation to be aware of is the anchor point requirement. If you have multiple kids and are already using all of your ISOFIX points, this safe may not be an option unless something else is removed. In my truck, I usually only have one car seat installed, so it works well for me. But if I needed both seats at the same time, the safe would have to come out. This setup is ideal for people without car seats or those with unused anchor points.

Overall, this is a really well-thought-out design. It solves a real problem for people who travel, carry valuable gear, or need a secure way to temporarily store a firearm in their vehicle. It’s not about being invincible; it’s about being practical and making theft significantly harder.


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Timney Alpha Competition Trigger in Ruger RXM – Worth It or Too Light?

If you’ve been keeping up with the channel, you’d know that I’ve been working on a Ruger RXM build, and today we’re going to address my biggest complaint with this gun, and that is the trigger.

For my build, I’ve decided to replace the stock trigger with the Timney Alpha Competition trigger. I actually already own this trigger for regular Gen 3 and 4 glocks, but that doesn’t fit into the RXM, even though the RXM is based on the Gen 3 platform. That’s because the RXM utilizes a proprietary trigger housing. So Timney had to rework their insert to make it work inside the RXM trigger housing. 

At this point, I’ve had the chance to shoot this gun with the Timney trigger in it, and it’s a night and day difference. I personally don’t like triggers that have a lot of travel after the wall. I can deal with it, but I find the stock trigger to be somewhat harder to control because it has a heavier pull and break weight. That doesn’t really matter when shooting at a normal pace or faster, but it was frustrating when I slowed down to zero in a red dot or tried to shoot small targets far away. The Timney trigger makes things a whole lot more predictable, as there’s much less travel after the wall, and you can reliably tell when the trigger will break. The Timney, by design, also actively helps with trigger resets with its included trigger shoe return spring, which can help you shoot faster. 

Now, if you’re going to be using this gun for EDC, people are probably going to bring up the concern that the Timney is advertised as a competition trigger with a light 3lb pull weight. And that can be a legit concern if you don’t put in the time to train with the Timney. It is light and you can pretty easily blow through the wall. Personally, I already owned the Johnny Glocks Timney Combat Conversion kit, which, if you’re unaware, are additional parts from the company Johnny Custom Glocks, which essentially adds extra weight to the original Timney. Not all the parts are transferable from the Johnny Glocks kit, but at the very least, the connector and striker spring are. I decided to put in the 6lbs striker spring with my setup. That’s heavier than the stock spring, which the internet generally says is about 5.5lbs. Doing this is supposed to bring the pull weight up to 4-4.5lbs, and the wall is now stout. I can still pull through it when I want, but I can definitely tell where the wall is and can stop on it controllably. 

This is actually my third Timney trigger, and honestly, it’s not my favorite. In the past, it just didn’t feel all that great to me. I don’t know what it is about this combination of parts, but they’ve moved the Timney up on my list, and I think it is actually my favorite trigger setup of all that I own for the Glock platform. The best way that I can put it is that the trigger is light, but predictable. I’m just in love with this setup right now, and it’s actually what I’ve been grabbing for just general dry fire practice, simply because I want to shoot with this trigger setup. 

In terms of pricing, the Timney is actually one of the more affordable options for the RXM at a retail price of about $100. Personally, I got mine on sale somewhere in the $80 range, so again, quite competitively priced considering that you are getting an entire trigger system with the Timney, rather than just small trigger parts replacements like some other sellers are offering for around the same price. But of course, I’m also utilizing some parts from the Johnny Glocks Timney Combat Conversion Kit and that will run you $72 plus shipping if you want to pick it up. Again, I bought my conversion kit years ago and am just reusing it. If you want a recommendation, I would say to run just the regular Timney first and see how you feel about it. If you think it’s too light, then I would consider adding the conversion kit. But if you want to save a lot of money and not get the conversion kit, just get yourself a striker spring kit from some other manufacturer and play with that. Depending on the weight you use, you’ll be able to obtain a heavier pull and a more defined wall. Again, I’m currently running a 6lb striker spring, and that’s working well, but I’m still experimenting and might try some lighter springs in the future. 

Overall, the Timney Alpha Competition trigger is, in my opinion, much better than the stock trigger, in general, but with the added small parts from Johnny Glocks, this trigger setup is next level to me, and this is an upgrade that I wish I had done sooner. 


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the affiliate links below.

Timney Triggers Alpha Competition Trigger for RXM

https://alnk.to/74yrVOK

Timney Triggers Alpha Competition Trigger for RXM - Blemished

https://alnk.to/aLMmwXr

Osight XR

https://amzn.to/42iMwVy


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