Health & Fitness

REP Fitness Ares 2.0 4 Post Pull Up Bar Extension Brackets

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REP Fitness Stainless Steel Black Diamond Power Bar vs Cerakote Double Black Diamond Power Bar

I’ve been using the REP Fitness Stainless Steel Black Diamond Power Bar for a few months, and this has become my favorite bar to use among the ones that I own, and that purely comes down to the knurling. It’s provided me with just the right amount of bite when doing pushing exercises like the bench press, and it grips very well when it’s sitting on me, like during a barbell squat. However, there are times that I feel like I want more, and that’s during pulling exercises like barbell rows and deadlifts. That’s where the REP Fitness Double Black Diamond Power Bar comes into play.

In terms of specs, these two bars are identical. The only difference is the knurling. Whereas the Black Diamond has what REP calls “Deep Volcano / Aggressive,” the Double Black Diamond has “Deep Mountain / Very Aggressive.” When I made my original purchase, I went with the Black Diamond because I was worried that the Double Black Diamond would be too much. That’s because of the Giant Fitness Northland Open Trap Bar that I own. That thing has the most aggressive knurling I’ve ever felt, and every couple of workouts with it, it’ll rip a chunk of callus off, which just slows my entire workout split down because I can barely grip after that. I didn’t want to deal with that here and went with the Black Diamond.

But after owning this, I do find myself thinking that maybe I want a little bit more. This particular Black Diamond is the stainless steel option, which is going to give us the most tactile response in terms of feeling the knurling. It is just bare metal with nothing on it, so we really get to understand the knurling. And because of that, I almost exclusively only buy stainless steel bars. I only own one barbell that’s not stainless steel, and that is the bar that I bought for visitors to use when they come to my gym so they don’t mess up the good stuff.

But for my purchase of the Double Black Diamond, again I was worried that it may be too aggressive, and that could potentially be the case if I bought the stainless steel version. So I made the decision to go with the Cerakote option because Cerakote is an additive process. This is a coating that’s applied to the metal and physically adds a layer of thickness to it. In terms of the knurling, Cerakote can fill in the knurling a bit, making it less aggressive than it would be without it. So if we were to look at the knurling in terms of a scale of aggressiveness between the Black Diamond and Double Black Diamond bars, you’d have Cerakote Black Diamond as the least aggressive, then Stainless Steel Black Diamond, then Cerakote Double Black Diamond, and finally Stainless Steel Double Black Diamond as the most aggressive.

In person, I would say that’s accurate, at least with my two samples. The Cerakote Double Black Diamond is a bump up from the Stainless Steel Black Diamond in terms of knurling aggressiveness. It’s nothing crazy, and upon first impressions, I would say that I wouldn’t mind switching to it for everyday use. I actually think that I like it more than the stainless steel Black Diamond. I can already tell that it’s not crazy over-the-top aggressive and doesn’t just rip your skin off all the time. But again, that’s just first impressions. I’ll have to report back in the future.

That being said, I do want to share that my Double Black Diamond is the worst condition bar that I’ve ever received. There’s a list of things wrong with it. First, during shipping, for some reason the person packaging this bar didn’t feel the need to reinforce one of the ends of the shipping tube and just taped it up. This, of course, allowed the bar to move, and one of the ends ended up slightly damaged. From there, we move on to the black Duracoat sleeves, which have the most terrible, inconsistent coating I’ve ever seen, possibly on any product. It’s super spotty and looks awful. The red Cerakote is better, but not that great. In person, I can see that certain areas of the Cerakote are glossier than others. So again, it’s inconsistent. This bar looks so bad, and I’m sure this isn’t representative of all of them, but it has certainly deterred me from buying another Cerakote or Duracoat bar from REP. From now on, I’ll probably just stick to their stainless steel bars.

So to sum things up, if you want an opinion on the Black Diamond line of bars from REP, the single Black Diamond in stainless steel is a good all-around bar, no doubt about it. But for my personal taste, even as someone who doesn’t like super aggressive knurling that tears your hands up, I think the Double Black Diamond in Cerakote is better. In my short time with it, I already like it more for everyday use, and again, I don’t think it’s overly aggressive. So the logical next question would be, how aggressive is the Stainless Steel Double Black Diamond bar? Is it really that bad? Personally, just from my experience with my two bars, I’m willing to bet it’s not, but unfortunately, I don’t think I’m willing to fund another $400 bar when I already have some good options here.


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HVO Leg Curl / Extension Machine

I was recently contacted by the company HVO, which makes various fitness equipment, with the hopes of me possibly reviewing their products. After some discussion, we settled on the leg curl/extension machine because it is something that I would actually use as someone who enjoys leg day.

Again, this product was sent to me by HVO for free. But I explained to them that this is going to be an unbiased review with me expressing my own personal opinions.

First, in terms of packaging, everything arrived in one cardboard box. All the parts are bubble wrapped, and mine was largely unscathed, with only one part that had some noticeable scratches.

Installation of this machine is relatively straightforward, as most of it is already pre-assembled, and everything is put together with only a few bolts. The bolts are also well labeled, so you can get the entire thing put together relatively quickly.

As far as the machine itself, it’s relatively compact and is a good bit smaller than a single horse stall mat. This is partly why I wanted this machine. It doesn’t take up too much space, and I felt that it was worth giving up that space in my single-car garage gym.

In terms of use, I’ve only put a few workouts in on this machine, but I would say that overall my experience has been good. I do want to point out that you can use this machine sitting up or lying down, depending on how you set up the pads. I personally only use this machine sitting up to save some extra space. The only reason to make the pads lie down is to do lying leg curls, but with the 24-position sundial, you can basically achieve the same thing sitting up. Lying vs sitting will hit slightly different muscle groups, and you can look that up for yourself, but for my uses, it’s close enough, and I’d rather save the floor space.

Speaking of adjustments, this machine does offer a few different options. The back pad goes back and forth, up and down. The Seat pad’s angle can be adjusted. The thigh roller goes up and down. And you have two sundials to adjust your leg positions. With the larger sundial, I really appreciate that they added position numbers because I do adjust this multiple times a workout to change between leg curls and extensions. There are no position numbers on the smaller sundial, but this isn’t a problem for me because I keep it in the same spot for everything, so it never gets adjusted. I can see this as being annoying if you constantly have to adjust it. Overall, there’s a lot of adjustability with this machine that I think most people are going to be able to make it work for them.

As far as the pads, I really have no complaints here. They are both 2 inches thick and offer adequate stiffness, but are not uncomfortable.

Now, let’s talk about actually using this machine. Personally, I only wanted this machine for doing seated leg curls and extensions, so I have the most experience with that. For these exercises, I think this machine does a great job once you get your proper positions dialed in. I haven’t used a similar machine since I worked out at a commercial gym years ago, so I don’t have a good frame of reference, but I’m so surprised that I can get such a pump and burn from just one 45lbs plate. It can get pretty difficult when doing a lot of reps. That being said, I think this machine would be beneficial for those who don’t own a lot of plates because most people would not need it with these exercises.

In terms of versatility, you technically can do quite a few different exercises with this machine. But some of the more practical options are highlighted by HVO, and I think that this machine is viable for those exercises. For example, you can position the leg roller to sit above your thighs and do calf raises. The machine is actually really functional for this. Then for those who like split squats, again, the leg roller can easily be positioned to give you a place to rest your foot. I really wish that I got this machine sooner because I spent hundreds of dollars on a pair of Rouge leg rollers that attach to a rack. I much prefer to use this HVO leg roller because it’s already there, and there’s really no setup time.

Again, overall I would say that this is a good machine, but not all is perfect. There are a few minor things that I think can be updated. First, there are two little square tubes that are used as storage locations for the thigh rollers and back pad. What I don’t like is that it’s just metal-on-metal contact. Over time, this black paint is going to get destroyed and I think these areas are going to be prone to rusting. I say this because my machine already shows signs of rust internally. This is something exclusive to this particular product, but really any gym equipment that’s imported can show signs of rust because it’s sitting in a container for potentially months, going over the ocean, then sit some more in a warehouse for who knows how long when it hits the US. So I’m not necessarily knocking HVO for this, I’m just saying that if this area gets scratched up, it too may start to develop some rust. My next complaint is with the selector pin for the smaller sundial. For some reason, when some weight is added and the machine is in use, this pin constantly makes a popping noise. It’s something that I’ve personally gotten used to, but is an annoyance nevertheless. Lastly, the handles that are attached to the back pad of my machine are angled weirdly. This is because the circular couplings that they attach to are welded unevenly. This is one of those fit and finish things that separates products. Aside from looking weird, I also don’t like how these handles are just held in place by a small bolt that loosens very easily under use. From my experience, it’s basically impossible to tighten these handles down and not have them wiggle out of place over time. This should definitely be addressed. But luckily for me, I never use this machine lying down, so I never have to worry about this.

And that’s the HVO leg curl/extension in a nutshell. For under $400, I think that this is a good buy. It offers a good amount of versatility for those who want a multipurpose machine and but is also very good at what it’s primarily designed to do, and that’s leg curl and extensions.



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Building a Platform for the Titan Fitness Squat Max MD

I’ve been using my Titan Fitness Squat Max MD for about a month and am constantly reminded that I’m a bit too short for it as I keep bottoming out when hitting parallel. I bought a different belt that’s slightly shorter, but it turns out that only helps until I reach over 300lbs, and the belt material stretches a bit, making me bottom out again. So, the only real answer is to build a platform that raises me up a bit, giving me the clearance that I need.

Obviously, there are a lot of ways to approach this project. What I’m going to show you is what I feel is one of the easier approaches. That being said, I did do a couple of optional steps to make my platform look and perform better. Not every step that I’m about to show is necessary, and I’ll let you know that when we get there. Also, I personally already owned a lot of the materials to get this project done so your mileage will vary. I’ll do my best to include as many reference products as possible for you below. With that said, let’s get started.

Probably the most obvious approach to building a platform is to use wood. For my project, I decided to go with a non-pressure-treated 4”x4” for the internal structure. This is because right off the bat, a 4”x4” would give you a 3.5” lift right out the gate. You just cut it to size, stand on it, and you’re done. Not much else needed. With most other wood sizes, you’re probably going to have to do some sort of stacking, which just takes more effort.

I originally planned on cutting two pieces of 4”x4”, sticking them side by side, and calling it a day. That would give me a 7” wide platform to stand on, and that would be perfectly functional, but a little bit ugly in my opinion. I ultimately decided to wrap the platform, completely covering the 4”x4”, so I also picked up a 4’ x8’ sheet of plywood. For this, I went with the thinnest sheet that my Lowe’s had, and it was 5mm thick. With my platform, the plywood is purely for aesthetics. It’s just to cover up the 4x4, which is what’s giving me the structural rigidity. So spending money on thicker plywood would just be a complete waste of money in my opinion. Pro tip, if you don’t have the means to rip a full sheet of plywood or just too lazy to do it like me, some hardware stores sell smaller pre-cut sheets but at a higher cost per square footage, and some hardware stores have large saws that will be able to cut the wood down for you. But just be careful with this, as some of the workers are not proficient with the saw and can make inaccurate cuts. I say this because this happened with my project. The guy cut a little bit too short. I didn’t double-check at the store and had to make adjustments to everything at home.

At this point, I want to talk about the platform size. This will ultimately depend on you and what you want. I would recommend that you stand on the Squat Max in your normal squatting stance and measure your foot from side to side. Remember, your feet are going to be angled a bit, so account for that. I personally gave myself some extra space and decided to cut my 4”x4” to 9.5”. I had 4 of these side to side, which gave me a length of 14”. So my internal structure was 9.5”x14”.

To attach these blocks together, I just used some wood glue between the sides and clamped everything together to dry. You can reinforce them even more by nailing or screwing them together but I didn’t think this was necessary considering that they’d be locked in place once I get the plywood on.

Next, it was time to cut the plywood down to size. Again, there are a few ways to approach this. I went the easiest route and decided to just butt the ends to each other. I would say that cutting the plywood down was the hardest part of this project for me because it’s 5mm thick. That doesn’t translate perfectly to the imperial fraction system that we normally use when dealing with wood. 5mm is just over 3/16” of an inch. So what I’m getting at is unless you’re extremely anal about measuring and cutting, there’s going to be some descrepencies when you go to assemble. Especially, if you have a 4”x4” that’s not perfectly straight like I did. Just know that and be prepared for some gaps. If you don’t care, then no problem. If you do care, then there are ways to fill the gaps. But in saying that, I cut 4 pieces of 14”x10”, 4 pieces of 10”x4”, and 4 pieces of 14”x4”.

Once I got all the plywood cut, it was time to assemble the plywood box around the 4”x4” internal structure. To hold the plywood in place, I used brad nails. I would recommend that you add some wood glue here to make an even more sturdy structure. I didn’t because I was in a rush to get this project done and didn’t want to sit around waiting for the glue to dry.

Again, because I was working with some imperfect wood, there’s going to be some gaps. You can skip this step, but if you care like me, you can fill in the gaps. This can be done with wood filler or, in my case, spackle because I have a bunch lying around. This particular product that I’m using goes on pink and dries white. Not the best look, but it didn’t matter to me because I plan to paint my platform black to match the color scheme of my home gym.

Next, I’m going to glue some anti-slip padding to the top and bottom of my platform. For this, I’m using some toolbox liner that I already had lying around. This padding is going to help keep the platform in place and prevent the wood from possibly scratching up the Squat Max. This is another optional step, but I personally really appreciate having this liner on the platform.

And that’s my entire process for building a platform for the Squat Max. I can’t tell you how much of a game-changer this is for me. I can squat so low now, way below parallel, without bottoming out even when using some of the longer belts that I own. I think if you’re under 6’ tall, this is definitely a worthwhile project.


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Titan Fitness Squat Max MD https://amzn.to/4mYKBPk

Spud Inc Pillow Belt Squat Belt https://amzn.to/43OJ7OV

Flex 12in Sliding Miter Saw https://amzn.to/4mQ5ex8

Speed Square https://amzn.to/43FlLuQ

Tape Measure https://amzn.to/43OJkBH

Titebond Original Wood Glue https://amzn.to/457PaQS

Wood Clamps 24" https://amzn.to/4kJ8Tut

Brad Nailer https://amzn.to/3HCeGDQ

Brad Nails https://amzn.to/45ccPjb

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Gorilla Clear Glue https://amzn.to/3ZLtnuw


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Titan Fitness Squat Max MD Simple Upgrades

I’ve been enjoying my Titan Fitness Squat Max MD but quickly ran into a few problems. Problems that I’ve found some quick and simple fixes for.

First off, the entire system is metal-on-metal contact. So when you use it, there’s a lot of clanking and excessive noise. I haven’t found a fix for the handles and safety scissors, but one thing that I’ve done to minimize noise in general is by adding some padding on top of the safety bars. I just used some self-adhesive mats that I keep around for random projects. With this, I cut a strip and stuck it to the top of the safety bars. Again, it’s self-adhesive, so it’s pretty straightforward. But in doing this, I essentially eliminated the noise of racking the loading pin.

My next problem with the Squat Max is the amount of movement the loading pin has when it moves up and down the guide rod. This is in place to allow a more natural squat pattern, but in my opinion, there’s too much slop and this results in the possibility of your plates catching the lip of the oval cutout. Funny thing is, the inventor of the Squat Max, Brian Hennessy, saw me say this in my original Squat Max video and he mentioned that that shouldn’t be possible. But when you watch the promo video with him talking about the Squat Max on Titan’s channel, you can clearly see the model clipping his plates on the lip of the Squat Max on the very first rep. So, it’s very much possible. In my case and because I use rubber-coated plates, every time I hit the lip, it tears a chunk off of my plates, and I really don’t like that. To combat this, I’ve done two things. First, is by changing how I position myself on the Squat Max. If you haven’t noticed, when you squat, you naturally sit back and your body naturally shifts back a bit. It’s this shifting back motion that allows the plates to get caught under the lip of the oval cutout. So if you move a bit forward on the platform, you gain a bit of clearance. Then on top of this, I’ve added an edge guard to the lip of the cutout. This adds a softer and more rounded edge to the lip in case I do happen to hit it.

Finally, and likely the biggest upgrade that I’ve made is in picking up a new belt and the one that works for me is the Spud Inc Pillow Belt Squat Belt. I’ve made a dedicated video HERE comparing this belt and the Titan belt that the Squat Max comes with so check that out if you’re interested. But in short, the Pillow belt is going to offer more comfort as the materials it’s made of are softer, more flexible, and offer more effective padding. The Pillow belt is also about 2 inches shorter than the Titan belt. In my case, this allows me to hit parallel on a squat without hitting the bottom of the Squat Max. That alone makes it a worthwhile upgrade for me, but that’s not going to be applicable to everyone.

If you don’t pick up a new belt, something else that I can recommend is to pick up a new carabiner. My Titan belt started to fray after the very first use and this is because the carabiner that came with the belt is a bit sharp around the edges. Brian Hennessy, the inventor of the Squat Max, saw my original video where I mentioned this problem and sent a replacement carabiner that he sells on his website. For sure, his carabiner is of much higher quality, and the fit and finish are much better. There are no sharp edges, so hopefully this won’t rip up my new Pillow belt.

For now, these minor upgrades haven’t necessarily solved all of my minor complaints with the Squat Max, but they’ve certainly minimized them. What I’ve shown you are simple little tweaks that don’t take much effort and don’t cost too much, so I can definitely recommend them to any Squat Max owner.


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Titan Squat Max MD https://amzn.to/3SjN3BS

Self-Adhesive Anti-Slip Pads https://amzn.to/43f23Hm

Edge Guard Strip https://amzn.to/44XY5UZ

Spud Inc Pillow Belt Squat Belt https://amzn.to/45oB6SY

Carabiner https://thehenny.com/collections/accessories/products/replacement-carabiners


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