Ilford HP5 Pus vs Kodak Tri-X 400

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This blog post is meant to act as a supplement to the video linked above where I compared Ilford HP5 Plus and Kodak Tri-X 400. The main purpose of this post is to include images so that you’re able to better see the differences that I mentioned in the video. All images are as scanned and unedited. The first image shows a side by side comparison of the images that you can click on to see it enlarged. The second is a slideshow of the images. The first image will always be of HP5 and the second of Tri-X. Below each image will be the statement that I made in the video in case you’d like to have a reminder of what I said.

For this first image, let’s start with the grain. On my end the grain pattern between these two films are noticeably different. With Tri-X, the grain seems to be closer together, giving it the perception that it is finer. With HP5, I can see a lot more space in between the various textures of the grain. This makes it more noticeable and prevalent in my opinion.

In terms of sharpness, I’ll cover this later with pictures that I think show the differences better.

Contrast. I think between these two images, although the differences are minor, it is noticeable. Tri-X is a more contrasty film. Pretty anywhere that’s in shadow, in this image, the blacks are going to be darker. Looking that the face of the artist with HP5, it almost looks like there’s one shade of grey. While on Tri-x, there are clearly defined shades and tones. You can argue that this is because the artist moved and the face is lit differently but I don’t think anywhere near what these images show. Remember, he’s wearing a hat and realistically, under that bill there should be noticeable shadows. In this situation, I think Tri-X is more true to life.

The same things can be said about this image. Pay attention to the fresh black ink on the client’s arm and the chair that he’s sitting on. The grain is much more noticeable in HP5 while Tri-X is much smoother. Tri-X is again also more contrasty. The dark parts of the chair are black. There’s no detail there with Tri-X while the chair is more of a grey with HP5.

In this third example, look at the shadows around the eyes of the artist. HP5 has lighter shades of grey that largely blend in with each other. Tri-X on the other hand, very apparent differences in tones.

This first image is of a tractor. I think everything that I previously mentioned about grain and and contrast are true here. Grain is less noticeable with Tri-X and it is also contrastier. I wanted to show this image because I’ve noticed that on a general, HP5 seems to produce an overall brighter image than Tri-X and this could be for various reasons. Hp5 could simple be a higher speed film than box rating. The extra brightness could also be because of the lack of contrast. Because the image doesn’t have as many dark tones, I could just be perceiving the HP5 image to be brighter. There are a lot of reasoning to this but in general, I personally perceive Hp5 to produce a brighter image. 

Here’s an image taken at f/1.8. I think if you’re examining grain, a good way to do so is by looking at the bokeh or the out of focus areas of an image. The grain really stands out in both of these images to me. I would still say that Tri-X provides a smoother grain. I would describe HP5’s grain as being clumpier. It’s just spaced out in a way that’s makes it looks like there’s more grain in a particular area. It’s difficult to describe but overall, I believe that Tri-X provides finer, smoother grain.

These last few images were taken on a third day at my local waterfront. This first one is a straight forward side profile of a bike. Looking at this image, I notice this difference in contrast right away. Again, Tri-X is much more contrasty. I chose this image because the contrast of Tri-X really makes the bike pop out from the background. There is a clear separation between the bike and the background and that’s because of the dark tones with Tri-X. The HP5 image again, provides more shades of grey than any real blacks. This contrast also really adds to the perception of sharpness. Because the bike stands out so much in the Tri-X, it just seems like it sharper. Your attention is immediately drawn to the bike. I can’t really say this for the HP5 image where the bike just kind of blends in with the wall.

This next image shows the same thing. The extra contrast of Tri-X really helps to provide separation for the boat from the other aspects of the scene like the sky and water. The contrast helps to show depth in the boat. It helps to show that there are surfaces at different distances from the viewer. With the HP5 image, it almost looks like the different surfaces of the boat are on a flat plane. There’s little depth or dimension in the boat.

Here is a portrait style photo of a Chinese lion statue. Focus was set on the right eye and to me there is such a clear distinction between the two images in terms of sharpness. Tri-X looks so much sharper to me than HP5. The lines of the eye is clearly defined compared to HP5. To me, this image shows that Tri-X is a sharper film than HP5 but again, I think the contrast of Tri-X helps with this. The extra contrast helps with the separation between surfaces and provides depth which promotes sharpness.

Moving on to the last photo for this comparison. I chose this photo because it really exhibits the stark difference in contrast that you can get with these two films. With this, there’s a white subject on a darker background. In reality, the background really that dark because the entire scene was in direct sunlight but because the branches and leaves grew in layers, there end up being a lot of shadows. With Tri-X, this just translates to a lot of blacks. With HP5, we can see that there is still some detail in the shadows. Because they are a lot more shades of grey, it’s easier to make out that there are different structures in the background. With this, it just depends on what you’re looking for. If you want more detail in the shadows, HP5 will provide you with that while Tri-X provides you with a clear separation between the subject and the background with the use of contrast.

If you're considering on buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Ilford HP5 Plus https://amzn.to/2RQ5GN4

Kodak Tri-X 400 https://amzn.to/2pWkM7e

Nikon N2020 https://amzn.to/2PC53oX

Nikon N90S https://amzn.to/2CMR39i

Nikon 50mm f/1.8D https://amzn.to/2CMEPxk

Ilford DD-X Developer https://amzn.to/2PxtUdG

Ilford Ilfostop https://amzn.to/2yFBhIO

Ilford Rapid Fixer https://amzn.to/2CP7QIw

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Peak Design Everyday Messenger V2 vs V1

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If you're considering on buying any of these products, please support my work by using the links below.

Get 10% off your Peak Design order from the official website by using these links
http://bit.ly/2NFh006
or
https://www.peakdesign.com?rfsn=1824705.61bab1&utm_source=refersion&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=1824705.61bab1

Peak Design Everyday Messenger V2
https://www.peakdesign.com/products/everyday-messenger/?variant=11616318750764&rfsn=1824705.61bab1&utm_source=refersion&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=1824705.61bab1

Peak Design Everyday Messenger 15" V1 (Charcoal) https://amzn.to/2MDe7Yu
Peak Design Everyday Messenger Bag 15" V1 (Ash) https://amzn.to/2MD2mRV
Peak Design Everyday Messenger Bag 15" V1 (Heritage Tan) https://amzn.to/2xpIZpP

Peak Design Everyday Messenger Bag 13" V1 (Charcoal) https://amzn.to/2xfe3JI
Peak Design Everyday Messenger Bag 13" V1 (Ash) https://amzn.to/2xiBgdI
Peak Design Everyday Messenger Bag 13" V1 (Heritage Tan) https://amzn.to/2xpDYgW

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Committing to Sony for the near Future

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Back when I started doing photography, the choice between camera manufacturers was much simpler. For a newcomer who didn’t know much about the industry, you probably only knew Canon or Nikon. When it was my time to to finally invest in a camera, I did some research but could only go so far because I didn’t know what to look for. I didn’t know the difference between APSC vs full frame, crop factor, or any of those type of technical aspects. I think ultimately what I did was compare spec sheets i.e. this camera has so many megapixels and has these features while this other camera doesn’t. Which ever one had what I thought was the best features win. 

I specifically remember wanting the Canon 6D. I thought that this was the best camera at the time without going overboard with the much more expensive 1D line. But I ultimately decided against the 6D because the cost to start with this camera was too high. I really wanted to stay within a certain budget because I didn’t know how long this hobby would last. Ultimately, I decided on the Nikon d5300 and I picked up a 35mm lens because that’s what many Youtubers recommended for beginners to get (I was very impressionable back then). Again, I didn’t know what crop factors were and if you understanding what I’m getting at, a 35mm lens doesn’t exactly act like a 35mm on my APSC d5300.

Later down the line, I decided to upgrade to the Nikon D810 and this camera changed my career. Some of my best and most memorable shots were taken on this camera and I can’t say enough about the things that this camera is capable of. Even today, 4 years old and I would say that this camera still ranks among the best for stills photography. In capable hands, really anything can be accomplished with this camera. 

That being said, while the d810 was gaining praise and winning all types of awards, there was a storm brewing. Sony had entered the full frame mirrorless industry and was gaining attention for the A7S and A7R. Personally, I could care less because I loved my D810. This all changed with the introduction of the Sony A7RII that featured a full frame sensor, 42mp stills and 4k internal recording. At this point, I was dabbling with video and a felt that I just couldn’t do what I wanted with my Nikon gear. The A7RII not only was able to keep up with the d810 for stills, it was better in my opinion and of course just completely obliterated it when it came to video capabilities. So I bought the A7RII and have been using it for the past few years. 

In October of 2017, Sony announced the A7RIII and I quickly got rid of my A7RII before the value depreciated too much and purchased the A7RIII and that’s where I’m at now. But 2018 is turning out to be a very interesting year for the camera industry. Canon and Nikon have already announced their first full frame mirrorless cameras and Panasonic is expected to join very soon. Knowing this, I recently sold off all my own camera gear, leaving only the bare minimum that I need to create content in preparation for a possible camera system switch. But after doing this and seeing everything that will be releasing, I think I’ve decided to stick with Sony, at least for the near future. 

Let’s talk about some of the things that I really want in a camera and camera system.

  • Full frame

  • 24 or more MP

  • IBIS

  • 4k60p

  • Above everything else is a 24-70mm f/2.8 lens (or something similar)

Currently there are no cameras that has everything that I want. The Nikon Z has no 4K60p or 24-70 f/2.8. The Canon R has no IBIS or 4k60P but does have the 28-70mm f/2. Sony has n 4k60p but has everything else that I want. So as of right now, the Sony system just ticks off the most boxes. 

I mentioned earlier that Panasonic is going to be going the full frame mirrorless market and they’re reportedly doing so as a joint venture with Leica and Sigma. They are to launch 2 cameras at Photokina, one with lower resolution and the other with resolution around 50 mp. Both will have 4k60p, IBIS and the cameras will launch with a 24-70. Just based on the things that I want, the Panasonic sounds perfect but of course there’s a lot more to a camera system than just these 5 things. I’m really intrigued in this new camera system but ultimately, I don’t think I’ll be able to switch to it because the cameras are rumored to ship in March 2019. I just can’t wait this long for a new camera. I have weddings and other work in the mean time and need a camera so logistically speaking, I have to stick with Sony for the near future. At least until all these new cameras are readily available on the market and I’m able to try them out. I have no personal attachment with any company and will use any camera that works best for my work. 

At least I’ve put myself in a pretty good position I were to make a brand switch. I currently only own one body and one lens, and borrow an A7RII when needed. If I needed to sell the rest of my gear, it’s not as drastic as someone who’s really invested into a system. At least for the next few months, I will be using Sony mirrorless cameras and I can’t really complain too much as Sony mirrorless cameras are among the best right now.

If you're considering on buying any of these products, please support my work by using the links below.

Sony A7RIII https://amzn.to/2x6dyjY
Sony A7III https://amzn.to/2oZPITj
Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM Lens https://amzn.to/2p44Zmt
Nikon Z6 https://amzn.to/2x4N4iT
Nikon Z7 https://amzn.to/2x4yPuy
Canon EOS R https://amzn.to/2x4YmUt
Fujifilm XT3 https://amzn.to/2oYaNOc

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Autofocus Manual Lenses | Fotodiox Pro Pronto Leica M Mount to Sony E Mount Adapter

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One of the great things about owning a mirrorless camera is it's flexibility when it comes to adapting lenses from other manufacturers. I personally use the Sony Alpha mirrorless system and since its inception, various companies have developed different lens mount adapters to allow the use of lenses from other manufacturers. This is great but only the major brands get the attention for autofocus adapter development. The older and less remembered lens mounts typically only get a very simple dummy adapter that does not transmit any information from the lens to the camera body. This all changes with the Fotodiox Pro Pronto adapter. 

The Pronto is essentially a lens mount adapter for converting Leica M mount lenses to Sony E mount. The main difference between this and any other adapter is that this one has a built-in motor that allows for autofocus and has support for AFS, AFC and face detection. Eye AF and lock on AF do not work. You can also change the focus area from wide to center or flexible spot but remember that by reducing the focus area, you can get a reduction in overall focus speed. 

This adapter autofocuses by physically moving the lens in and out within a 4.5mm range and according to Fotodiox, this should be enough for most lenses. A benefit of this method would be that you are also able to improve the minimum focusing distance of a lens by essentially using the adapter as an extension tube. This is great because rangefinder lenses are typically not very good at close focusing. With M mount lenses, the minimum focusing distance is typically around .7 of a meter or 2.3’.

This adapter can support a lens setup up to 2 lbs or 907 grams. That is huge considering that the Sony A7RII that I mount this adapter to only weighs 625 grams. My Sony 16-35mm f/4 weighs 518 grams. My Sony 24-70mm f/2.8 GM? 886 grams. Still under the max load capacity of this adapter. When you start looking at the weight of various lenses, you start to realize just how much this adapter can muster and I have to say, I’m quite impressed. 

Now you may be saying to yourself, this is all well but I don’t own Leica M mount lenses so I have no use for this adapter. Well, maybe not. Remember, the lenses from other manufacturers can easily be adapted to the Leica M mount. For example, here is a Nikon lens adapted to the Leica M mount with the use of another adapter. This, in turn, means that I can use this and other Nikon F lenses with the Pronto adapter to not only mount to my Sony E mount camera but also achieve autofocus with these older manual focus lenses. Of course, this is not just exclusive to Nikon F mount lenses, but really any lens that can be adapted to Leica M and this is why this adapter is so amazing. It opens up a whole new world for those who have manual focus lenses but want autofocus capabilities. 

It should be noted that this adapter is designed to be used with E mount cameras that feature phase detection and was not intended to support cameras with only contrast detection autofocus. If you’re interested in using this device, make sure that your camera body is compatible. Current Sony cameras with Phase Detection AF include the Sony a6300/a6500, a7II/a7III, A7RII/a7RIII and a9. 

Another thing to note would be noise that this adapter makes. The focusing motor of the adapter is audible, but it’s hard to complain about this because it is what it is. If some minor focusing noise means that I can autofocus my manual lenses, then I’ll take it. Also, if you’re interested in using this adapter in any scenario where there’s background noise like in the city, it’s likely that the noise of the city will drown out the noise of the adapter. In quiet locations like a studio, a library, or a church, sure people a few feet away may notice the noise but any significant distance and they won't hear a thing. I personally don’t think the noise is that big a deal.

Since we are talking about an adapter that allows for autofocus, I’m sure you’re wondering just how well this adapter performs. This is tough to express because autofocus performance can be somewhat subjective. It’s really based on the gear that you use and what you’re used to. For example, I often use the Nikon N2020 which was one of the early pioneers of autofocus. In comparison to today’s cameras, the autofocus on the N2020 is atrocious but it was just about the best of its time. I still often use this camera and am able to capture images with its slow autofocus system and in comparison, the Pronto on the A7RII destroys the autofocus on the N2020 so that’s great. 

Since I'm mounting the Pronto on a Sony camera, how do I think it performs in comparison to Sony native lenses? This is tough to say because it depends. In good lighting, this adapter can perform flawlessness and autofocus is very fast. Just about as fast as a native lens. On the other hand, in certain dark scenes, the autofocus can be nearly unusable where a native lens will likely still be able to perform. So autofocus performance can fluctuate and is greatly dependent on lighting conditions. 

My main intention for this adapter is to use it in street photography scenarios and after being able to try it out on the street, I would say that I’m happy with the adapter’s performance. It was able to handle the constant changing environment throughout the day and that's what I need. At the end of the day, this adapter is meant to allow me to autofocus with my manual lenses and I think it does an excellent job at it. For my purposes, this adapter is a winner and comes highly recommended. 

If you're considering on buying any of these products, please support my work by using the links below.

Fotodiox Pro Pronto Leica M Mount to Sony E Mount Adapter https://amzn.to/2NCFLFZ
Nikon F to Leica M Adapter https://amzn.to/2uUKZF3
Sony A7RII https://amzn.to/2LDe2V3
Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM Lens https://amzn.to/2uzrsuq
Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS Lens https://amzn.to/2JED5VG

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My Camera Gear

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This list of gear is what I currently own and use. The list will be updated as my gear change. If you're interested in buying any of the listed product, click the name of the product to be taken to it's product page. I'd appreciate it if you use the links provided as they are affiliate links and will give me a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Digital Camera Bodies & Lenses

Sony A7RIII - This is my go to digital body for photography. 42mp sensor and 4K video capabilities means that it's an excellent option for hybrid shooters.

Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM Lens - The 24-70 f/2.8 is the most useful/versatile lens, in my opinion. This is the lens that I make sure to get no matter the camera system that I'm using. 

Sony A7RII + Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS Lens
If you’ve kept up with my work for a long time, you’d know that I actually sold this setup but had the ability to borrow it whenever I want. Well, I figured that I was borrowing it so much that I’d just buy it back, so I did. The A7RII is a great cheaper alternative to the A7RIII if you don't need the little refinements that the newer body provides. The 16-35mm f/4 is a sharp and relatively cheap wide angle lens that is extremely flexible. I enjoy this setup very much and am currently using it to record all of my YouTube videos.

Samyang 35mm f/2.8 AF - This is the lens that I use when I want a small, lightweight and compact lens. This lens is TINY and produces great results. Full review here.

Filters

Wine Country Camera Filter Holder - Like I said in (THIS VIDEO), this is the best camera filter system on the market.

Wine Country Camera Blackstone ND Filters - I currently own the 3, 6, and 9 stop ND filters. These are the best ND filters that I've tried yet.

Tripods

Manfrotto MT190CXPRO4 Tripod - This is actually the first pair of tripod legs that I ever bought. It's like my dad taught me, buy something that may cost a bit more the first time around, and it'll last a long time so you don't have to waste any more money buying another one. Of all the tripod legs that I’ve had throughout the years, this is by far my favorite.

Manfrotto MH057M0-Q5 Ballhead - Along with my first tripod, this is my first ballhead. I like this particular one because it uses the Manfrotto 501PL plate, which is generally what many video heads use. This means that I only need one plate for both photo and video setups. 

Sirui A1205 - My new travel tripod. Small, lightweight and capable! I’m using this tripod more and more and it has been the first option on many occasions.

Benro FIF19CIB0 - Another travel tripod that I own. This has actually become my main tripod. Whenever I only need one tripod, this is the one that I grab. Although the technical specifications of the Sirui is better on paper, I actually think this tripod performs better.

Manfrotto 502HD Fluid Head - The best fluid head in terms of bang for the buck in my opinion. Any time that you see me make a video in the studio, my camera is sitting on this head. Video review HERE

Additional Equipment to make YouTube Videos

Sony FDR-X3000 - My most used action camera. It has great video quality and the built-in optical lens stabilization works great to provide smoother shots. 

Shure VP83 LensHopper Camera-Mounted Condenser Microphone - Shotgun mic that I use in the studio.

Movo VXR10 - A more affordable shotgun mic that I currently use while vlogging.

Rode RodeLink Wireless Filmmaker System - Wireless mic system

Tascam DR-10L Digital Recorder & Lavalier Mic - Backup wireless mic system that costs significantly less than the one above. However, with this one, you will have to sync audio in post.

iPhone Xs Max  - I often use this phone to capture video and often get compliments on video quality.

Film Cameras & Lenses

Nikon F3 - My first film camera and one that I always recommend. This is a great film camera for users of all skill level. This thing is built like a tank and can last a lifetime.

Nikon F100 - The most technologically advanced film camera that I own. If you want to have a shooting experience like a modern camera, try this one. This is my go to film camera when I have a serious shoot and want to get consistent results because the camera has the adequate technology to provide it.

Nikon N90S - An in between of the Nikon F100 and the Nikon N2020. It’s a bit bigger and heavier but gets the job done.

Nikon N2020 - My favorite everyday film camera. It’s not the most technologically advanced camera but it’s just one of those things that feels right.

Nikonos V - My go to underwater/waterproof film camera. This is a cult classic and the recognition is well deserved.

Nikonos II - My backup underwater/waterproof film camera. A great camera but lack the light meter.

Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AI-S - A great fast 50mm lens that I often use on manual Nikon film cameras. This is a great lens for film cameras but also still very functional when adapted to modern cameras. I often use this lens on my Sony cameras and get fantastic result.

Nikon 50mm f/1.8 Series E - Probably the best bang for the buck lens that I’ve every bought. This lens can be purchased for very cheap and it still produces great results. This is my go to walk around manual lens because it is just about as small and compact as you can get for the F mount.

Nikon 50mm f/1.8D - My main autofocus lens for my more modern Nikon film cameras. This lens is still being produced today and is one of the cheapest full frame Nikon lenses that you can get. I like this lens so much that I bought it twice.

Nikon 24mm f/2.8D - If you’re looking for a compact wide angle prime, then I’d highly suggest checking this out. This is one of my most used focal lengths for landscape photography and as a portrait lens, it provides and interesting perspective that you’re not going to see a lot of.

Camera Bags

EVOC CP 26L - My new everyday camera backpack. I can’t say enough good things about this bag. Stylistically, this is such a good looking bag and holds enough for my everyday needs.

EVOC CP 35L - When the EVOC CP 26L isn’t big enough. They are essentially the same bag, this one is just bigger.

Mindshift Backlight 36L - The bag that I use when hiking/outdoors. The well padded straps make this a comfortable bag to carry on long hikes. I own both the Backlight 26L and 36L but opt for the 36L most of the time because I need to carry more equipment when making my landscape photography videos.

Lowepro ProTactic 450AW - My old go to. I used this bag 99% of the time. Whether it's walking through the city or traveling the world. Although this is now a backup bag, it is one that I still keep around because it’s a good all rounder.

Peak Design Sling 5L - This is the bag that I use when I don't feel like carrying a lot. This is for the minimalist setup, one body, one lens, and maybe a few smaller items. If you'd like to get 10% off your Peak Design order from the official website, use this link https://www.peakdesign.com?rfsn=1824705.61bab1

Peak Design Everyday Messenger V2 - The bag that I use for air travel. I like the V2 of this bag because it has a luggage passthrough that makes carrying a lot easier in conjunction with a luggage. If you'd like to get 10% off your Peak Design order from the official website, use this link https://www.peakdesign.com?rfsn=1824705.61bab1

Pelican 1510 - The standard in hard cases. This is is the case that I’ve used for the past few years and holds my camera gear everyday.

SKB iSeries 2011-7 - A new hard case that I’ve recently started using. It’s a great alternative to the Pelican 1510 and is a bit better if you’re looking for a case that you can pull around a lot.