Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating on Paint Protection Film

I recently got the Supra wrapped in XPEL Ultimate Plus paint protection film and in preparation for this, the car had to be completely stripped of any previous coatings. The paint has to be bear in order for the film to properly adhere to the paint. This is before PPF application, after application and although XPEL advertises that you’ll get 10 years of life out of the film, you’d really want to coat the film to get anywhere near that longevity. Coating the film is relatively simple as you pretty much just do whatever you do with the paint, whether it is waxing, using a sealant, or some other coating. I figured since I’m hoping to keep this film on for a long time, I might as well go for an extremely durable coating. After some research, I’ve decided on Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating. With other types of coatings, we get weeks with waxes, months with sealants, then years with ceramics. 1-2 years is pretty standard now with ceramic type coatings and 3+ years is pretty good. With Graphene Ceramic Coating, Adam’s is claiming 7+ years of protection. Of course, all these durability ratings are based on lab tests and when a car is actually driven and faces the elements, a lot of things can go wrong for a coating and durability can take a huge hit. I know this but I’m still going to be optimistic and go with what I’ve seen advertised as essentially the longest lasting coating.

This video is by no means a how-to video or an in-depth breakdown of Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating. It’s just going to be me attempting to apply this product to my PPF and provide you with some information that I’ve come across that may be helpful for anyone else who’s interested in this product. If you’d like to learn more about application or the product, I’d suggest watching the video that Adam’s made on their YouTube channel. It’s pretty detailed and where I got a lot of my information. With that being said, let’s get into it.

Like any other paint protection coating, to get the best performance, we have to spend some time prepping the surface prior to application. This means that we should, in order, wash the car, chemically decontaminate, mechanically decontaminate, then paint correct and polish if necessary. This particular application is weird. The PPF throws a big wrench into the process so it’s going to be very different than what most people are going to deal with.

To start, I’m going to wash the car. This gets rid of any obvious dirt and debris. Things that we don’t want on the surface in general and definitely not under any coatings. On this occasion, I used Adam’s Car Shampoo.

Next, I’ll be moving on to decontaminating the surface. I usually start this with chemical decontamination but with the PPF, I was advised not to use any harsh chemicals. That covers quite a large spectrum. I wasn’t given specifics but I’m going to play it safe and skip the chemical decontamination stage because that requires the use of an iron remover which is kind of harsh. It also helps that this car hasn’t been driven since the PPF was installed so there shouldn’t be a crazy amount of fallout on the surface. So, I just move straight to mechanical decontamination. According to the official XPEL website, their PPF can be clay barred so that’s great. For this step, I’m using Meguiar’s Mild Professional Detailing Clay and Meguiar’s Last Touch Spray Detailer as a lube.

Now that the surface has been decontaminated, the next typical step is to take care of any necessary paint correction. I couldn’t find any specifics on the XPEL website but I’m personally not going to polish the film. Because the PPF is a softer plastic, it can pick up scratches and when you paint correct, you are essentially abrading away the scratches, leaving smaller scratches. Doing this on the film can be extremely touchy, it’s not a situation that I’m comfortable with so I’m going to avoid it.

By skipping the chemical decontamination stage and paint correction, it likely means that I’ve reduced the coating’s chance at an optimal bond with the film, but that’s a trade-off that I’m willing to take. The risks of doing these stages are unknown to me and can be extremely detrimental. I’d rather have to reapply the coating than reapply the film.

At this point, let’s take a look at the product. I bought the complete kit with UV light and this comes with everything that’s needed for the application itself. An important inclusion is the Surface Prep spray. This is an isopropyl alcohol mix and is designed to strip the surface of any remaining waxes and residues. It should be noted that 99% isopropyl alcohol can be used to clean the XPEL film so this mixture should be safe.

Now that I’ve stripped the surface to the best of my abilities, I’m ready to apply Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating. Applying this product is similar to many other highly concentrated ceramic coatings. You apply the coating on with the provided applicator, wait for it to rainbow and flash, then level the coating. It’s a relatively straightforward and easy process but if you’ve never done this before, I’d highly suggest watching the application video that’s on the official Adam’s YouTube page.

This kit comes with some suede applicators and towels and that seems to be the preferred way to apply this coating and to level it off. The suede keeps the coating from fully saturating the applicator and you’re able to spread it around more easily. Then when it comes time to buff and level, the suede towel is a bit tougher and stiffer so it cuts through the flashed coating and takes it off a bit easier than a standard microfiber towel.

When you apply this coating, it will begin to rainbow shortly after it hits the surface. This is very dependent on atmospheric conditions and flash times can vary. When the rainbow disappears, it’s time to buff and level the coating. The rainbow can be difficult to see on lighter color cars so you can double-check by touching the surface. The coating will become tackier and less shiny when it’s time to wipe. It is recommended that you level the coating as soon as possible but you do have some wiggle room. Things should be fine if you get to it within a few minutes. It really depends on conditions but Adam’s customer service told me that you have up to a few hours but again, there’s a lot of variables that come into play. Just watch it and get it off when it’s ready. The longer you leave the coating on, the harder it is to level as it hardens.

Now, something to note is that this product has what Adam’s calls UV Tracer Technology. This basically means that the coating will glow when exposed to a certain spectrum of UV light. So, if you hit it with an appropriate UV light like the one Adam’s sells, you can see where you’ve applied the coating. To be honest, this didn’t work very well for me and I find it largely gimmicky. If you use the UV light with any decent amount of light, it is basically too weak and makes it difficult to decipher between what’s coated and what’s not. Everything just looks purple. The UV light works a lot better at night or when it’s dark. This would only be helpful for those who have an indoor space where you can shut off the lights, check your work, turn the lights back on, and fix any necessary mistakes. If you’re working outside, the only time when the light is really useful is at night but then it’s too dark to actually work.

And that’s about it. Overall, the process went without a hitch. I found the coating itself to be easy to apply. If you’ve done any other ceramic coating, it’s about the same difficulty. I’m looking forward to seeing how the coating holds up but only time will tell. I’ll periodically make update videos to show you guys how the coating’s doing so make sure to subscribe to my YouTube for that.


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating https://amzn.to/32wHzux

Adam's Car Shampoo https://amzn.to/2RkyoGW

Meguiar’s C2000 Mirror Glaze Professional Detailing Clay https://amzn.to/3isPa2p

Meguiar’s Last Touch Spray Detailer https://amzn.to/2E1g7vo

Adam's Surface Prep https://amzn.to/2Rqf6zU

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d


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Toyota Supra INJEN Evolution 2300 Intake

For this install, we’re going to first focus on removing the stock intake. Begin by removing the temperature sensor. This is done by pulling the grey tab up, pressing it in, and then pulling up on the temp sensor wire harness. Next, loosen up the 6mm nut that’s holding the intake tube clamp in place. At this point, we can remove the airbox from the engine bay. You can tear the box down further but I like to remove the entire thing in one piece. The airbox is held in place by 3 rubber grommets and they like to come out with the box. If this happens, remove the grommets from the bottom of the airbox and place them back in the engine bay.

Next, we have to remove the intake tube. This is held in place at 3 points. At the bottom of the intake tube, you’ll need to remove a retaining clip. The easiest way that I’ve found to do this is to slip a small flathead screwdriver into one of the exposed ridges and then pull the entire thing out. Save this clip as we’ll be needing it later on. The intake tube will also be attached to the crankcase hose. This needs to be squeezed at the knurling then pulled out. Lastly, the is an electrical wire that is attached to the other side of the intake tube. To get this wire out, you have to pull the two front tabs down and push the top back. After disconnecting these 3 things, the intake tube is now free and can be removed.

Next, locate the turbo adapter and 3.5” hump hose from the Injen kit. Attach the two parts together with the provided clamps. Only tighten the clamp on the turbo adapter side for now. At this point, we have to remove the o-ring that’s inside of the stock intake tube and place it in the groove of the turbo adapter. Be careful with the o-ring. If it’s cracked, torn, or worn out, you’ll need to replace it. Now, take the retaining clip that we removed earlier from the bottom of the stock intake tube and re-install it into the Injen turbo adapter. Make sure that the OEM o-ring and retaining clip are seated correctly. If that is so, we can move forward with installing the turbo adapter assembly into the vehicle. With this, you just have to push it into place. The retaining clip will expand and slip back into place by itself. Double-check that the assembly is seated properly and not going anywhere by giving it a little pull.

Next, we’re going to remove the temp sensor from the OEM airbox. This is held in place by two T25 torx screws. Re-install the temp sensor into the Injen intake tube. Make sure to use the provided Injen M4 button head screws and do not reuse the OEM screws in the Injen intake. Now, we can take the intake tube and attach it to the turbo adapter assembly. Once it’s in place, you can tighten the clamp. At this point, you can also attach the crankcase hose into the Injen intake tube.

Moving to the Injen airbox, we’re going to install the heatshield to the bottom of the airbox with the provided M6 screws. Next, take the filter and install it into the airbox. Once it’s seated, give the filter a 1/4” turn in either direction to lock it in place. We can now take the airbox assembly and place it in the engine bay, using the stock rubber grommets. Once it’s in place, attach the intake tube to the airbox assembly and hold the two together by tightening the clamp.

Lastly, re-connect the temperature sensor harness and we are done.

And there you have it. The Injen EVO2300 intake installed on the A90 Supra. With something like this, I typically provide some sound clips but this Supra is still in the break-in period and I don’t want to rev it like crazy so you’ll just have to subscribe to my YouTube channel for that when I release it. As far as the install, it was pretty straightforward. I didn’t personally run into any problems but if you do and need some help, drop a comment and I’ll do my best to help you out. If you want to support my work, I do have a Patreon and a variety of other outlets linked below.


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Adam's Air Cannon Car Blow Dryer

Adam’s is a well-known name in the auto detailing industry but not so in the car blow dryer industry. So, when the Air Cannon Dryer came to market, it seemed to be overlooked. There’s very little information out there from users on this device. Because of this, I decided to pick one up for myself and give it a try in hopes of helping everyone out there who’s also interested in this product.

To start, let’s take a look at the Air Cannon itself. This product comes in a red, black, and white color scheme that matches the Adam’s logo very well. The unit itself features a 3.2 HP motor and outputs 106.7 cubic feet of air per minute.

At the top and on the carrying handle, we have an on/off switch and above that, a knob to control the speed or output of air. The speed control knob is nice. With some of the other blowers that I’ve tried, it’s either on or off. Full power or no power. Some blow dryers have high/low setting but this can be a hit or miss. Here, the powerband is quite wide. I like this because I’m able to dial in the proper amount of power for the occasion and surface. This is one of those things that you don’t think you need until you experience it.

Included with this device is a self-expanding and retracting 30-foot hose. Coming from a blower with a 7-foot hose, the 30-foot length is extremely handy. I can leave the Air Cannon in one place and just move around the car with the hose rather than constantly having to reposition the blower around. I also really like the self-expanding and retracting design. Most car blow dryers come with a hose that is just one size, so if you buy a 30-foot hose, you have a 30-foot hose to deal with. Here, when the Air Cannon is not in use, the hose retracts and is roughly 10 ft long. This makes it smaller and more manageable.

The Air Cannon also comes with two different nozzles that can be attached to the hose based on your needs. The nozzles have a twist locking design that keeps it in place. I felt the need to mention this because some much more expensive dryers hold their nozzles on with modified hose clamps and it looks super janky. Here, the design doesn’t seem like an afterthought. The same goes for the padded grip towards the end of the hose that helps to keep the warmth off of your hands because this device, of course, blows warm filtered air.

I’ve been using the Air Cannon now for a few days and I like it. Overall, I think it offers a lot of value for the price but there are two things that I would like for Adam’s to change. First is more power. My other blower dryer is advertised to have 4 horsepower and it does feel like it moves water off of panels faster than the 3.2 horsepower of the Air Cannon. Not to mention that the Air Cannon is getting pretty close to the price range of some other blowers that have 8 horsepower. My second suggestion is to add a temperature control. Right now, it seems like the warm air is also controlled by the speed controller. So, the more speed or power that the blower pumps out, the warmer the air gets. If you have the speed knob at a low setting, you’ll pretty much get no warm air.

These two complaints aside, I do think that this is a good product. The Air Cannon has been my go-to for drying cars and I wish that I went with it in the first place instead of messing with some of the other cheaper alternatives.


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SHELANDY Professional 4.2HP Dryer (same thing different name) https://amzn.to/30ZTnVn

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Toyota Supra AMS Performance Carbon Fiber Intake

I recently purchased the AMS carbon fiber intake for my Supra. Long story short, things didn’t work out and I sold the intake to someone else. At least I was able to still make an install video. Watch and enjoy it. Hopefully, it’ll help some of you out there!

I purchased this intake from Speed Industry.
They didn't sponsor this video but gave great customer service!


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