Gucci Polymer 80 First Range Day Update

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I was recently able to take the Polymer 80 that I built out and live-fire it for the first time. In this post, I want to share with you my experience with the gun and its various parts.

First off, I want to advise those that have not seen my original build video to watch that first because some of what I say here is going to make a lot more sense with that previous information in mind.

Let’s just go from top to bottom, starting with the Trijicon SRO. The particular one that I own has is a 1 MOA dot and this is the smallest dot that I’ve run so far. I typically use Holosun optics and the ones I use go down to 2 MOA. When I bought the 1 MOA SRO, I did so because it was the only one that I could find in stock anywhere. There was some worry that the dot would be too small but after getting some range time, I can say that I honestly never even thought about the dot size. Maybe it’s because I’ve been running red dots for a little while now but I didn’t feel like I struggled at all with finding the dot. I actually like the 1 MOA dot more because once I started shooting at longer distances, it was much easier to precisely put the dot where I want it and not worry about the dot size covering up my target. This is only my first experience with this dot size but I don’t see it being a problem moving forward.

With the SRO, I should also talk about its general design. A point of concern that I brought up in my first video was that because the SRO overhangs the footprint and moves much closer to the ejection port, there would be a problem with spent shells bouncing off the optic as it’s ejected. Again, because I didn’t record myself, I couldn’t really keep track of where spent shells were going. However, there were two notable instances. In the first, I noticed a shell fly forward, ahead of me. It would make sense that the shell extracted right at the SRO and that caused it to bounce forward. On the second occasion, I noticed a shell flying straight up then landing on my hat. Again, it would make sense that the SRO caused the shell to do this. In my first video, I mentioned that I included two parts in my build to help with shells ejecting at the SRO and those parts are the Gen 5 ejector and the APEX Tactical Failure Resistant Extractor. I can’t judge the ejector too much in this build because I don’t have a lot of time with it and it seems to work, but the extractor I can speak upon.

An OEM Glock extractor for a Gen 3 Glock is around $20. The Apex Tactical Failure Resistant Extractor is $60. So for three times the price, how did it perform. I’m going to say flat out that this thing is trash. Total garbage. This part is often recommended over the OEM extractor because it is supposed to be milled better and has a better angle of attack so it can better pull spent shell casings out. When I tested this gun, I noticed a ridiculous amount of failures to eject. Literally the very first mag. The first shot went off. The second shot went off. The third shot was a double feed failure to extract. I thought maybe because this is a new gun and there’s a lot of aftermarket parts, things just needed to break in. So I continued and the failures just kept coming. I was never able to shoot more than 3 shots because of some sort of failure to extract. There were a bunch of double feeds and on many occasions, the spent shell would still be in the barrel and get lodged in there by the next round. I had to find a cleaning rod to force the spent shells out of my barrel. After trying a few different types of ammo from different manufacturers, I just knew that something had to be up with a part. I locked the slide back, looked down the mag chamber, and noticed that the extractor looked more rounded than I’ve ever seen any other extractor. So, I stripped the slide, pulled the extractor out, and guess what? Like 75% of it had sheered off and there was only a little nub left that was attempting to extract spent shells. What a piece of junk. Again, I had failures within the first handful of shots so it was possible that this thing broke off after one shot. After figuring this out, I borrowed a stock extractor from someone I was shooting with and things ran flawlessly the rest of the day. Not a single similar malfunction since. I can’t tell you how disappointed I am with this part. I contacted Apex about this and they’re sending me a new one but man, I don’t know if I’m willing to go through testing this thing again because it could be a ticking time bomb. I may work for a while then bam! The extractor sheers off again and if this happens when I need to defend myself, it’s game over. The gun will essentially be a one-shot pistol. I’ve put in a stock Glock extractor and it will likely be used for a while considering that I know it works with my setup.

Back to the topic of the SRO’s overhanging design, I do want to mention that I noticed that this optic gets dirty a lot faster than others that I’ve tried. Because it’s so close to the ejection port, a lot of gasses expel and build upon the glass. After shooting for a bit, I thought that I was fogging up the glass because it was a rather cold day. But the fogging never went away and it was pretty obvious what was going on when I looked at the front glass. There’s not really a fix for this so I’ll just have to deal with cleaning the SRO more often.

The next part that I want to talk about is this Tyrant Designs extended slide release. I removed it immediately upon returning home because I was so ready to replace it. This is the third one that I’ve purchased, one was for my Glock 43X and two for Gen 3 Glocks. The one for the 43X works flawlessly so no complaints there. The first Gen 3 release was fitting kind of weird so I got rid of that one. The second was better but I noticed that it was also bent kind of weird. When installed, there seemed to be a lot of play. There was a lot of play and It was able to move to and from the frame a lot more than it should. Well, in shooting, this resulted in the slide release actually lifting up and jamming itself between the frame and slide instead of locking back. This is the first time that I’ve ever seen this happen. Another reason why I think this particular one was bent wrong is that I noticed the mag that I was using got chewed up by the release. A part of the bar just stuck out too much and continually hit the edge of my mag causing damage. Luckily the store that I purchased the release from was cool with calling this a manufacturer’s defect and will let me return it. I’ve replaced the Tyrant with a Tango Down Vickers Slide Stop. I’m not sure how I feel about this slide stop yet so we’ll see what happens with it. Hopefully, it will be more reliable than the Tyrant.

Next, the only other part that was giving me problems was the L2D dimpled pin set that’s holding everything in place. Three of the pins were fine but the smaller top pin kept walking out. After a few mags, it would move from right to left. It just seems like this pin is a little bit too narrow. This could also be a contributor to my slide release problem because the slide release has a spring that sits in a groove on this pin. So if the pin is walking, the spring isn’t seated properly and that can be why there’s more than a normal amount of play. Luckily I still have the dimpled pin set that came with my PFC9 so I just put those pins back in but kept the L2D trigger housing pin because if you remember, the PFC9 only came with 3 dimpled pins for some reason and the trigger housing pin was plain flat. The L2D trigger housing pin worked fine in this frame so I’ll keep it to have a complete 4 dimpled pin set.

Moving on, let’s talk about the Norsso Piranha EDC slide. Like I said in my first video, I love the way this slide looks. It’s super aggressive. But, that aggressiveness equates to rather sharp corners on the serrations. Because I was having so many malfunctions, I ended up having to manipulate the slide a lot. I had to rack this thing so many times and in doing so, I noticed at the end of the day, my hand’s index and thumb got cut up quite a bit. Only one cut was visible and the rest are those cuts that you don’t see but when you run them under water they start to sting. So, the slide is a tough call. It looks really good and runs perfectly but is it worth cutting my hand up to use it? I’m not sure yet. This slide is actually already sold. I have a buyer lined up and now I just have to decide if I want to pick up the ported version of this slide or go with something else.

Since we’re talking about the slide, let’s cover the barrel since they run hand in hand. First off, as I mentioned in my first video, this Lantac 9ine barrel was already showing some wear on the hood after a few hand manipulations so I wasn’t sure how it would hold up long term. Well, I got my answer. This barrel is developing wear faster than any other barrel I’ve owned. It’s not too bad right now after 250 rounds but just think long-term. The marring is already pretty deep in comparison to some of my other barrels that have more use so I don’t know about this one. The length of the barrel is also developing some wear but that’s a little bit slower. All this wear is of course, largely related to the slide. Maybe the two are just rubbing a bit too much but that’s just something that you figure out through trial and error. These are aftermarket parts so who knows how they’ll run together. They certainly weren’t designed for each other so I can’t really complain here. However, on a brighter note. This is the most accurate barrel I’ve ever shot. But, of course, that’s not completely just attributed to the barrel. The gun is a sum of its parts. Everything works together. And I have to say, the setup that I’ve put together here has helped me to be more accurate than I’ve ever been.

Then also connected to the barrel and slide, we have my stainless steel guide rod. I’m running stock 18lbs and that seems to be functionally ok. It ran all loads perfectly but I did notice some primer drag. Again, the gun runs so this is something that I’ll eventually get to. Messing with the weights is an unnecessary thing at the moment.

Finally, let’s close with the trigger. I’m running the Johnny Custom Glocks Legacy Universal Hybrid system. Now, because this part is such a major component and it costs so much, I want to make a video solely dedicated to it. I think it deserves that. But for now, let me just say that this is the best trigger that I’ve ever used. When talking about accuracy, we have to partially contribute that to the trigger and I personally have never been more confident with a trigger than this Johnny Glocks Legacy trigger. Again, I’ll make a video dedicated to this thing so keep an eye out for that.

And that’s about it. I realize there are a few more parts to this build but if I didn’t mention it, those parts just worked as they should and that’s good considering all that I went through on just my first range outing with this setup. It was a major pain to troubleshoot at first but once I got this build going, man is this thing sweet. It is absolutely my most favorite handgun right now. This thing is just amazing. But once I get everything really dialed in, I think this thing will be perfect.

So, I’ll be sure to keep you guys updated on this build and hopefully will be able to take you along with me on my next outing.

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Cheap Car Blow Dryer

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When we wash a car, there’s liking going to be some water left behind. You can either leave the water to air dry or do something to get rid of it. Well, If you let the water air dry and unless you’re using a water filtration system, you’re doing to develop a bunch of water spots. That’s not exactly ideal so air drying is not really a recommended approach. So, the logical thing to do is to dry the car somehow. What most people are going to be used to is simply towel drying. However, even when using a high-quality towel, there’s always the chance of introducing some light scratches as we can unknowingly be dragging leftover dirt and debris across the surface of our vehicle. Not to mention that towel drying can be time-consuming and isn’t very effective when you have to deal with nooks and crannies. So, what’s the better alternative? Blow Drying.

For this, there’s an entire industry of options from different manufacturers and these blow dryers range in price from about $100 to $500.

Today, I have for you a dryer that’s right at the bottom of that range. This is the AIIME Dog Dryer and it costs about $110. You heard that right, this is a dog dryer and not specifically a car dryer. From my experience with these types of dryers, what’s marketed as a god or pet dryer is essentially the same thing as a car dryer. The products share many of the same features and very often, the pet dryers are going to give you more bang for the buck.

Case in point, with the AIIYME we get a powerful 3200W/4.3HP motor. If you were to try and buy a car dryer for around this price point, you’re more likely to get something with a 1HP motor. If you’re looking for 4HP, you’re more realistically looking at two or three times the price.

Included with this unit we get a flexible self-expanding and retracting hose that stretches up to 78 inches and four different nozzles. Realistically for auto detailers, three because the brush nozzle isn’t really doing to do any good for our paint.

Now that I’ve gotten some time in with this unit, I’d like to share with you some of the pros and cons that I’ve noticed.

The first pro is the general controls. On top of the dryer, we have three adjustments. On the left, we have the power switch. That’s pretty self-explanatory, it turns the dryer on and off. In the middle, is a knob to control the speed and rate of wind flow. This knob is stepless and there are no hard stops or specific settings. I like this because it allows me to more easily dial in the speed that I want. Say I’m blowing water off a hood because it’s generally a big flat section, I can crank the speed all the way up and just get the water off. Then if I’m working around vents or a delicate area, I can turn the speed down to not damage anything. I like the stepless knob because I find it easier to get what I want than say just on/off or something specific because sometimes you need those in-between settings and this gives me that. On the right of the speed knob is a switch to turn the heat function of the dryer on and off. I really like this feature and it is something that is not usually present on car dryers. With a car dryer, the heat is usually always on. I think the option to have the heat on or off is beneficial because sometimes it’s just not necessary. For example, if you’re someone who auto details outside and you can only do it in direct sunlight, having the heat can be detrimental because it just adds to an already hot surface and makes the water dry even faster, possibly contributing to water spots.

Another pro with this dryer is that it includes a way to securing attach the hose and nozzles. These parts are held in place by a ring that snaps into a groove. This may seem trivial but I’ve tried some dryers where attachments are simply friction fitted or use some other janky methods and things can definitely pop off. Having a nozzle fly off at your car while using a powerful air cannon isn’t something you’d want so the locking collar design is appreciated.

Now, as great an option this dryer is, I do see two potential drawbacks. The first is the rubber feet. Because this is a pet dryer, something like this typically doesn’t have to be moved around too much. This is fine for a small animal that stays in place but we have to make our way around a car. This just means that if you go with something like this, you’re going to have to pick the dryer up and move it around a couple of times before finishing up. This isn’t a problem for me because even with my dryers that have wheels, I keep them on my auto detailing cart and move that around as I dry a vehicle. For those who don’t have such a thing you can just manually move the dryer around, or you can take the rubber pads off and replace them with some caster wheels that fit. This is a fairly easy fix.

The next drawback is the hose length. Again, with this unit, you get a hose that stretches out to about 78 inches. This can be short depending on your needs. If you have a super lifted car, this unit may just not work for you unless you do something to keep it lifted while drying. But considering that this unit is made for pet drying, we can’t really complain and just got to consider what we’re working with.

But overall, this is a great little dryer. It’s plenty powerful to dry a car, motorcycle, quad, or whatever else you feel like blowing air at. For the price, I think this unit is hard to beat. If you’d like to pick one up for yourself, I’ve included a link to the product in the description below.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

AIIYME Dog Dryer https://amzn.to/2Tq7jGK

Other's I've Tried:

BigBoi BlowR Pro https://amzn.to/3rM0GdB

Adam's Air Cannon https://amzn.to/3jd8Yqx

Homend Pet Dryer https://amzn.to/32tTyt7

SHELANDY Professional 4.2HP Dryer (same thing different name) https://amzn.to/30ZTnVn

Other Car Dryers https://amzn.to/2DXPabz

Other Pet Dryers https://amzn.to/32DQoTL

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

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Gucci Glock 2.0 | CR Precision V2 + Killer Innovations Velocity Barrel + Jagerwerks B.R.O.S.

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In this post, we are continuing with the most current iteration of my Gucci Glock build. If you’ve been keeping up with this thing, you’ll be able to tell that there are some pretty major changes, particularly to the upper. Since my last update, I’ve sold my Norsso Piranha EDC slide, 10-8 Performance sights, Tyrant Designs slide plate, and Lantac 9ine Match Grade Barrel. The slide was something that I was kind of planning to sell from the start because, as I’ve said, I was thinking of going with the Norsso Piranha Ported slide. But after getting to use the EDC for live fire, I’ve found that if I had to do a lot of slide manipulations, the sharp serrations on the Piranha actually cut up my thumb and index finger. I guess maybe that’s why it’s called the Piranha, because it bites and tears your hand up. Anyway, I figured that although I love the way that slide looked, I would rather have something that I didn’t have to worry about if I ended up having to do a lot of slide manipulations. Then because the slide was being sold, I might as well sell the sights that were already installed and a good fit for the next owner’s Holosun 507C, which I also sold him. The Tyrant rear plate had to go too because it matched the slide. Lastly, I sold the Lantac barrel because it just made sense. That barrel worked extremely well with the Piranha slide. The combination was extremely accurate in my testing. Letting the buyer get all of those parts will just work out better for him because I did all the trial and error. So that means that I had to replace everything that I sold.

The first thing that I had to find was a new slide. For this, I decided to go with the CR Precision V2. I’m going to be honest. Times are hard right now if you’re into gun building. Parts are extremely hard to find and sometimes you just have to get what you can find. This slide is kind of that for me. I wouldn’t say it’s my first choice but it’s up there. I’ve been eyeing this slide for a bit and timing was just right as it was the only one that I could find in stock and actually like. I love the front end of this slide. The oval front serrations are pretty unique. Then we have the top of the slide that features some side angle lightning cuts and center peep holes. At the nose, we also get an angled cut into the sides. I like this because it’s a good way to show off a barrel if you went with a nice one. The cuts are just deep enough so that if you have a fluted barrel, people will be able to see it but they’ll get just a peep and it keeps them guessing. I like the subtle yet not-so-subtle design of this front end. I also like it because it’s not really something that I’ve seen. If you look for aftermarket slides a lot you’ll start to notice that many of them look alike. For me, this is one of the designs that stand out but it’s not crazy over the top. However and moving to the back, we get a crosshatch pattern that makes small diamond serrations. This rear end is what’s kept me from buying this slide sooner. Not only is this a pretty common design but I don’t think it’s the best match for the front. I would much more prefer to have the front’s oval serrations in the back as well and I think that would’ve taken this slide to the next level but it is what it is. You can’t be too picky when buying off the rack.

Now, there are a few things that I do want to mention for those interested in this slide. First, my slide arrived Cerakoted. I wanted to mention this because the product page for this slide on the CR Precision website doesn’t say how the slide was to be finished. Again, mine is Cerakoted and I personally do not like that. I have another slide that’s been Cerakoted and from experience, this coating just gets damaged too easily if you holster your gun a lot with a Kydex holster. The two materials just don’t mix. Not to mention that my brand new slide arrived with quite a few scuffs so that was a bummer. I did some buffing and that reduced the scuffs a bit but they are still noticeable if you know where to look. I also don’t like Cerakote on a slide because it adds just a slight bit of thickness which requires some extra breaking in. That was definitely the case here as my barrel kept getting caught up in the slide and I had to wiggle the barrel in and out a few times before it would seat properly.

The next thing to know about this slide is that it is cut for the RMR footprint. But instead of doing a traditional RMR cut where there are posts up front and screw holes in the back, CR Precision went the ZEV route and got rid of the front posts, and made raised bosses where the screws mount. This will only be a problem for those who want to run an optic like the Holosun 509T where an RMR adapter plate is used and the optic clamps onto that plate. I can’t verify if the 509T will work with the CR cut because I got rid of the one that I owned but I know that it didn’t work with the Zev cut with the raised bosses. Just something to keep in mind.

Finally, I want to mention that although this is a Gen 3 slide, none of my Gen 3 extractors fit in this slide. They do not seat properly and dramatically stick out. The only extractor that I’ve found that fits this slide is the Apex Tactical Failure Resistant Extractor. I personally do not want to run this extractor because it’s given me a lot of problems in the past but at this point I have no choice because, again, this is the only extractor that fits in this slide. After contacting CR Precision, it turns out that some of their slides have a burr in the extractor channel and that’s what’s causing this issue. It just kind of blows my mind that there wasn’t enough care to check for this type of thing prior to shipment when it is a known problem. For those who buy this slide and run into a similar problem, contact CR Precision and they’ll remedy the problem for you. I’m not sure if they’ll exchange the slide out or just file the burr down. I would personally recommend getting a new slide because I wouldn’t want a brand new slide filed down and have a portion of it not coated. Because I have the Apex extractor that fits, I’m just going to try running it for a while and see how things go. Hopefully, all is well or I’m going to have to figure something out. At the moment, I can’t say I’m too happy with the service from this company. For an expensive slide such as this, it shouldn’t have arrived damaged and quality control should’ve been better. I personally will likely not be buying another slide from this company.

Moving on and to cap off the slide, I got the Rainier Arms slide plate. This was a pretty obvious buy because this rear plate also features that crosshatch diamond pattern so it was a good pairing with the rear serrations.

I also picked up the Rainier Arms Fiber Optic Suppressor Height Sights for Glock. With the 10-8 sights that I had on my Norsso slide and in conjunction with the SRO, the sights were just a little too short for my liking because they were barely visible. With the Rainier Arms sight, I’m getting about a lower fifth cowitness whereas the 10-8 sights were giving me something like lower tenth. I’m much more confident with the height of the Rainier Arms sights if I had to use them in a pinch. I also think that these sights give a lot of bang for the buck. The feel like quality upon first impressions and give more features than some of the competition in the same price range.

Next, we have the Killer Innovations Velocity Non-Threaded Barrel for the Glock 19. Like the LacTac barrel I previously had, I bought this one because it’s a looker. This is a fluted barrel but and like the Lactac, this is another barrel that went with a more unique fluting design than the typical straight or spiral lines. I really don’t even know what to compare this pattern to. My imagination says rocket ship but it’s definitely up to interpretation. In any case, I like this barrel because the fluting extends pretty far forward and it works well with those front slide cuts that I mentioned earlier. Again, subtle and keeps you guessing. Also, check out the milling on this hood. There’s actually a window cut through it. I’ve never seen this before. I think if they did this on both sides of the hood, it would’ve been that much better and it would’ve matched the CR slide so much more considering the top slide cuts. But I’ll take it as it is. This is a really good looking barrel.

I also want to point of that my Rainier Arms sights came with a green fiber optic rod preinstalled but also came with a spare yellow and spare red rod. I took the green rod out and installed the yellow to better match the gold barrels. Remember, it’s the little details that really set these builds apart.

Finally, the last change to this build is the Jagerwerks Battle Ready Optic Shield or the B.R.O.S. This is something that I ordered long before and it just finally arrived. As you can see, the B.R.O.S. is essentially a shield for the SRO and it should help a lot to increase the durability of this optic. This product product also features a little lip that wraps closer to the bottom of the SRO and is suppose to act as a brass deflector to help with those spent shell casings ejected at the SRO. I’m kind of skeptical of how effective this will actually be considering how small the lip is but we’ll see after some testing. The B.R.O.S. does add some extra bulk to the SRO but I’ll take it. The extra protection is well worth it.

And those are all the new upgrades to my Gucci Glock build. Right now, in the studio, I can say that I’m largely happy with where this setup is. Everything looks good but really no point in having a good looking gun if it doesn’t function reliably unless you just want an expensive paperweight. I’m going to go shoot this thing as soon as possible and hopefully, I’ll be able to record that outing for you guys.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

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Gucci Serialized Polymer 80 PFC9 Build

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I want to share with you my 99% complete Gucci Polymer 80 build. I say 99% complete because I’m waiting on one part that’s made to order and it’s possibly still weeks away. In this post, I want to go over the various parts of this build and my initial impressions of them.

Alright, let’s get started on this P80 build. First off, the lower. The foundation of this build started with a serialized P80 lower. For those unaware, yes, Polymer 80 has the 80% lowers that we all come to know but they also sell 100% completed serialized frames and they actually sell completed firearms, out of the box ready to go. Those firearms are marketed as the PFS9 for the full-sized version and the PFC9 for the compact. This is how my lower started its life. It was a PFC9 complete firearm.

I personally knew that I only wanted the serialized lower. I wanted something that I can carry without trouble. The legality of carrying an un-serialized firearm is going to be dependent on location. Even in places where it’s legal, an un-serialized gun can just be one of those things that you can be harassed for if law enforcement happens to disarm you for whatever reason. At the end of the day you may not get charged for it, but it can just make life a bit more difficult and waste some time. For a carry firearm, which I do intend to carry this thing once in a while, I’ll just stick with the serialized version.

So, why did I buy the fully assembled PFC9 instead of just the lower? The biggest reason is that the lower only just wasn’t available to me locally and the complete was. This made buying the complete a no-brainer but before doing so, I made sure to have a buyer lined up for everything but the frame. I made that happen and the lower ended up costing me less than half the price of the 80%.

Now that I have the lower, the next task was to get a slide. For this, I went with the Norsso Piranha EDC. I’ve been eyeing this slide forever and it is possibly my favorite looking slide of all time. It just looks super aggressive. This thing has a bunch of angular slide cuts which equates to front and rear serrations. Then you have the knurling on top of the slide. Put all that together and you get a one really detailed, well milled slide.

Norsso actually also makes a Piranha Ported slide and it looks exactly like the EDC but the Ported has a window cut between the top knurling. I was and am still kind of considering buying the Ported Piranha slide but I’ll explain why that is in a bit.

This slide also features an RMR cut and that’s important to me because I red dot everything now. If a Norsso slide is in stock, it usually comes with the RMR cut because that’s the most popular footprint but there are other options if you don’t mind special ordering a custom slide. The RMR cut is fine for me because, on this slide, I have the Trijicon SRO mounted, which has an RMR footprint. I actually had a Holosun 507C on here for a bit but come on, I’m building a Gucci Glock here and what’s more Gucci and in your face than the SRO? Aside from the hype, this thing is just great. Massive sight picture and it fixes my biggest gripe with the RMR and that is the bottom loading battery. Here, the battery tray is up top and batteries can be changed without taking the entire optic off and possibly throwing off zero. However, one thing that kept me from buying this optic for so long is just its general design. As you can see, the SRO overhangs the footprint and moves closer to the ejection port. The problem with this is that, very often when brass ejects and because the SRO is so close to the ejection port, brass will hit the optic then bounce elsewhere. I haven’t fired this gun yet so I don’t know my situation but there are a few different things that I included in this build to help alleviate the problem.

First, I got a gen 5 47021 ejector. If you’re unfamiliar with Glocks and building Glocks, what’s important to know is that gen 3, 4, and 5 9mm Glocks all have different ejectors. Gen 3s come with a 336 ejector, Gen 4s come with a 30274 ejector, and Gen 5s come with 47021 ejectors. The Gen 3 336 ejectors are the worst. They are extremely inconsistent and eject spent shells in all directions including left and back at the shooter. That’s obviously not ideal so just stay clear of that. The Gen 4 30274 ejectors improve upon this and are much better with a lot of shells ejected towards 4 to 5 o’clock. Normally, this would be fine but because I’m running the SRO, the gen 4 ejector would most definitely fling shells at the optic. So, I’m running a Gen 5 ejector because it more often ejects at 3 o’clock which gives me the best chance of clearing the SRO.

Then to take it one step further, I’m also running the Apex Tactical Failure Resistant Extractor. If you didn’t know, the stock Glock extractor is a major contributor to failures in P80 builds. It’s a cheap part that’s not designed all that well. Apex noticed this, went to the drawing board, and designed something that gets the job done. The claw is milled at a better angle which more effectively grips the spent shells, pulls them back, and gets them to the ejector. So if you build some sort of Glock and are have failures to eject, combine this extractor with a Gen 4 or 5 ejector and that should take care of most issues.

Finally, the last thing that can be done to help protect the SRO from ejected brass is to get the B.R.O.S. from Jagerwerks. This is essentially a steel shroud that adds extra protection for the SRO. If you’re unfamiliar with this optic, a quick search would show that the general opinion of it is good. The only potential negative is that because of the big round design, the optic loses structural integrity and is not as durable. If dropped, there’s a much greater risk of the optic failing than many other well-known options. Well, the B.R.O.S. is hopefully the answer to that problem. It should add a lot of protection for the major points of impact and actually has an extended section at the lower corner to help deflect those spent shells. At the beginning of this video, I said that this build is 99% complete and that’s because the B.R.O.S. is the only part that I’m waiting on. I placed my order about 5 weeks ago and the processing time is 4-6 weeks so I’m hoping to get it soon.

For the sights, I went with the 10-8 Performance Glock Tall Sights. .315H for the fronts and .395H with a .140 notch in the rear. 10-8 offers other taller heights for the fronts but that just comes down to preference. For the rear, there is an option for a larger rear notch and that would’ve been ideal as the irons are meant as a backup so having that larger notch would help with faster acquisition but this was the only option available when I ordered and they still do the job. The notch sizes aren’t that dramatically different anyway.

With backup irons, I personally like about a lower fourth co-witness when running a red dot and this combination provides that when I had a Holosun 507C on this slide. Since switching to the SRO, these sights are pretty low. They’re like lower 10th co-witness now. Is it still usable? Yes, but it definitely takes me longer to adjust and find them. This is definitely not ideal in my opinion. I thought about switching the sights out but I’m just not sure yet because I don’t know how permanent some of the parts of this build are yet. There are some things that may be moving around so I’ll just have to wait and see. Besides, at this point, I’m pretty comfortable with red dots and realistically never use irons anymore so for something that’s a last-ditch effort, these work.

Next, let’s talk about the barrel. For this, I went with the LanTac 9ine match grade barrel and I have to say, this thing is a work of art. The milling on this barrel is very well done from tip to tip. As you can see, this is a fluted barrel but it has a much different fluting design than the typical straight or spiral lines that’s on the market. I don’t know if there’s a specific name for this pattern but it reminds me of a water dropper pipette from science class and apparently, this is a proprietary patent-pending flute pattern. If you didn’t know, barrel fluting lessens the weight of a barrel but can actually increase its rigidity. The fluting can also help to dissipate heat. That’s all great but I’m going to be honest and say that I bought this barrel purely for aesthetic reasons. The milling just looks so good. I bought this barrel after the slide and this is what made me regret not getting the Piranha Ported slide because to me, if I’m going to buy a fancy fluted barrel, I want to show it off with some slide cuts. The ported slide would’ve been perfect for this barrel because it runs front to back and would’ve shown off this fluting which also runs front to back. The two would’ve just been a good match. But not showing off the barrel can also be a good thing because the barrel is eventually going to start showing some wear in the finish. This particular one has a black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating and I’ve had a few barrels with something similar and the coating tends to wear pretty quickly. This gun has not been live fired, only dry fired to check for function and there’s already wear developing on the hood. That started happening within the first hand full of slide racks even though I made sure to heavily oil the hood. It’s just something that happens with this type of coating and it’s just going to get worse. So again, having a slide without the window cuts might be a good thing because the barrel may look good new, but it’s one of the parts that gets beat up a lot.

Moving down from the barrel, I’m running a stainless steel guide rod with a stock weight 18# spring. Because this build is such a mix of different parts and so far away from stock, I thought that it’d be a good idea to run a recoil spring assembly that I can switch the springs out on because that may be something that I’ll have to do. There’s going to be a lot of testing necessary for this build and a lot of trial and error.

Finally, the last visible thing on the slide, the rear plate. For this, I went with the Tyrant Design plate and as you can see, it has a chevron arrow design which I thought matched very well with the front serrations. This is also why I went with the matching Tyrant extended slide release. Again, chevrons, and in this instance, it faces the same directions as the front serrations. These are the little details that really add up.

Now, Tyrant does also make a matching extended mag release but I went against it because it’s a typically narrow gen 3 mag release design. I don’t hate that, but it’s definitely not preferred. The Tyrant mag release is also full aluminum. This is a problem for me because the Glock mags are polymer. Polymer mag release on polymer mag is ok, metal mag release on metal mag is ok, but when you mix the two, the metal mag release will eventually chew up the polymer mags. It just depends on the design of the mag release but this is usually a case of not if but when because it will happen eventually. It may take one use. It may take one hundred uses. You just don’t know until it happens and this is not something I want to gamble with on a carry pistol. Instead, I found another extended mag release on eBay which gives the larger area of a gen 4/5 mag release and I have to say, this is the best mag release I’ve ever used. With others, I’ve always had to reposition my hand to activate the mag release. This is the first instance where I don’t have to do that. I can drop the mag without any major changes to my grip and that’s a complete win. On top of that, this release gives me the look of an aluminum release at the button, but that button is held on by two screws to a polymer catch. So, I will have no issues with the mag release eating up my mags. As of right now, this is hands down my favorite mag release for Gen 3 Glocks. I would like more options than just the straight lines but I’ll take it. This is a very well-designed mag release.

Next, the trigger. For this, I went with the Johnny Custom Glocks Legacy Series Univeral Hybrid. This is a drop-in kit so it came with the entire trigger assembly meaning, the shoe, trigger bar, connector, trigger spring, ejector, and trigger housing. In addition, I also picked up the Johnny Glocks upgraded striker and safety plunger. This is my first Johnny Glocks trigger so I can’t say too much about it. I’ve only dry-fired with it so I don’t have too much of an opinion. I’ll make an update in the future once I’ve run some live rounds through this setup.

I should mention that the Legacy comes with 4 different weight striker springs and two trigger springs. The various combination allows you to get quite a wide spread of trigger pulls weights and feels. I’m currently running the 5.5# striker spring and 5# trigger spring. This combination gets me about a 3.75# break. I’m good with that for now but will definitely be playing with the springs to get my perfect setup.

Now, the main reason why I purchased this trigger is because it is actually compatible with all generation Glocks and will fit any Glock-like frames such as the P80, Nomads, Shadow Systems, and etc. Pretty much anything that takes Glock parts, this trigger system should work in so long as you have the right size frame. I was interested in this because I like to do these builds. So to have something that I can swap in and out and make work in everything, it’s just extremely convenient. I can have one trigger to test in all my Glock builds and get a feel for what works. That being said, I don’t know if this trigger system will be a permanent part of this build. As I’ve said, it’s meant to be my trial donkey. It’s just in here for testing purposes so it might come out when I put my next build together. We’ll just have to wait and see.

Moving up front, I have an extended slide lock. This is something that’s come to be a must on all my Glocks. I personally think the ones that come stock is just too short. It makes dissembling the gun more difficult than necessary and the extended slide lock definitely helps with that. This particular one is extended but there’s a slant or graduation to the extension. Up top, it’s pretty much stock length and gets more extended as you move down. This slant extended slide lock has become my favorite design because it’s more ergonomic. With some extended slide locks, the manufacturer just makes them too long and if you rest your thumbs forward, your thumbs can catch the slide lock and just get irritated or ripped up after shooting for a while. I don’t see that happening with this design and it still provides that extra ease of use. The slant actually makes gripping the slide lock much easier. So, I’m a fan of this design.

Lastly, I think the only other notable thing is the pin set. These particular pins are from L2D and as you can see, all of them are dimpled. I actually got the idea for these pins from my completed PFC9 P80 because it came with dimpled pins. But for some reason, only the front 3 pins were dimpled and the back trigger housing pin wasn’t. So I thought, I’m already here. I’ve blown a bunch of money everywhere else so might as well pick up the L2D pin set and make all four pins dimpled, so here we are.

And I think that’s it. I think that’s every notable part of this build. This setup took months to get to where it is right now and that’s partly because of all the shortage in the gun industry and partly because I keep changing up the parts. To be realistic, it’s very likely that there are still going to be a few major changes coming up for this build. I have a few people interested in buying some of the stuff you’ve seen here and I just have to decide if I’m good with this build as it is or not. I’ll definitely keep you guys updated if there are any major changes.

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Fastest Way to Remove Water Spots from Glass

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I previously made a video showing how to remove water spots from glass by polishing. No doubt, this approach works and is almost surefire but depending on the condition of the water spots, how baked on they are, and how much glass you have to polish, the entire process can take hours to complete.

Well, I’ve been experimenting and have found some products that are extremely effective in removing water spots from glass. These products are the offerings from Bar Keeper’s Friend.

This company makes many different variations of this product but I personally only have experience with MORE and Soft Cleanser. MORE is a more watery substance that sprays out as a foam whereas Soft Cleaner, although still a liquid, is just thicker. In terms of consistency, the closest thing that I can compare Soft Cleanser to is ranch dressing.

For a demonstration of the products in use, watch the video above.

To use these products, all we do is apply the product onto the glass or onto an applicator and just scrub them in. Now, it is extremely important that you DO NOT let this stuff stay on the glass for too long. The directions specifically say no more than a minute but it really depends on the atmospheric conditions. You just don’t want this stuff to dry on any surfaces. Bar Keeper’s Friend is essentially an acid and it removes the water spots by eating away the minerals that cause the water spots. However, if left on for too long, Bar Keeper’s Friend can etch the glass and you’re going to be worse off than just having water spots. But don’t worry, this sounds a lot scarier than it is. All you have to do is use something to neutralize the product. This can be as simple as just spraying the surface down with water, wash it with some soap and water, or use a waterless wash. In short, just use some sort of liquid.

In saying that though, keep in mind how water spots occur. In general, there are minerals in water. If you don’t properly dry a surface after getting it wet, as the water air dries, the water may disappear but the minerals are left behind and those minerals are the cause of water spots. So, if you get rid of the water spots with Bar Keeper’s Friend but you rinse with tap water and don’t properly dry, you’re just going to introduce new water spots and this is all going to be a futile effort. If you’re doing this, make sure to properly towel dry or use a car dryer like I’m doing in the video above.

If you’re interested in any of the products discussed in this post, look below where I’ve linked everything.

And that’s pretty much it. Apply Bar Keeper’s Friend to the glass, rub it in for one minute, rinse off and dry. The process can’t be easier.

From my experience, most water spots can be eliminated in just one application. Some of the most stubborn water spots will leave traces of their edges behind but that’s no problem. I can just do another application and that’s what I would suggest for you guys to do. If you’re worried about Bar Keeper’s Friend possibly doing some damage, play it safe and leave it on for noticeably less than a minute. Say, 30 seconds. So you may have to do a few more applications but this is definitely one of those better safe than sorry situations. And at the end of the day, more applications of this process is likely still going to save you a lot more time than some of the alternatives so no big deal.

Again, I only have experience with MORE and Soft Cleanser. Both of which you can see me use in the video above. However from my experience, one clearly outperforms the other. If you are purely looking to remove water spots from glass and not some of the other materials that these products are recommended for, Soft Cleanser is the way to go. Between the two products, there are some minor differences in the ingredients and that seems to make Soft Cleanser much more effective at removing water spots. Don’t get me wrong, MORE definitely works but where Soft Cleanser only requires one application, it may take MORE two or threes applications. Keep that in mind.

Either way, using Bar Keeper’s Friend is just so much faster and more effective than any other water spot removal methods that I’ve tried. But because there is some chance that this product can cause damage to your car, I can’t say outright for you to follow my lead. Do your own research and decide if you want to give these products a try. I’ll just finish off by saying this. I personally have used this product to clean the glass of my Supra. This is my baby so if I’m willing to use Bar Keeper’s Friend on it, then that shows the confidence and trust that I have for these products. I will personally continue to use them when water spots develop on the glass of my cars and I probably will never try anything else again. Bar Keeper’s Friend is just that good to me.

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