Weber iGrill 3 Install on Genesis II E-335

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OXO Coiled Grill Brush With Replaceable Head

I was recently at Costco and was looking through the various grilling stuff when I saw the OXO Coiled Grill Brush With Replaceable Head for sale. This was something that I was unfamiliar with but the design looked interesting and I desperately needed a new grill brush so I thought it was worth a try.

I think when looking at this OXO brush, the thing that jumps at you right away is the design of the brush head. It features a bristle-free design utilizing stainless steel coils that resemble chainmail. This is combined with a flexible silicone backing that helps to mold against the grilling grates and makes cleaning easier. At the tip of the head is a built-in scraper and cutouts to help get around the grill grates.

A possible major selling point of this grill brush for some is the replaceable head. It’s held on by a flip latch mechanism and can easily be changed out.

Upon first impressions, I would say that for a grill brush, this thing has some good weight to it and feels like a tank. It just feels so well made and is the best feeling grill brush in terms of quality that I’ve ever owned. The entire brush is made from stainless steel aside from the silicon in the head and grip.

In terms of use, this grill brush is designed to function as a hot grill cleaning brush. That being said, I think some people will have reservations about this because the head does feature silicon. So the question is how hot can it and the grill get? I don’t have a definitive answer for that but I will say that I had my grill to over 600 degrees Fahrenheit and I see absolutely no issues with the silicon.

Now, I do want to note that my grill is fairly new. I’ve only used it a few times and I clean it between uses so it’s not that dirty in the first place. I also season my grilling grates pretty well so things don’t really stick. That being said, I recently switched and am trying out grilling on the flat side of the grilling grates. And because of this, I’ve found that some of the other grill brushes that are designed for pointy side grill grates users, don’t really work. My other grill brush is basically useless on the flat side so I was really worried about this OXO brush because it does have grooves for the pointy side of the grill grates. However, I’m happy to report that the OXO brush did absolutely fine on the flat side. It actually did great, on the flat parts. But because of this design in general, it can’t really get too deep down and there are some stragglers left behind on the sides of my grates. But overall, I’m very happy with the OXO brush’s performance.

However, I do have one point of concern and it can pototentially be a big one. After my very first use of this brush on a grill that wasn’t that dirty, I can see that some parts of the stainless steel chainmail is already wearing down and flattening out. Presumably, this is going to continue to happen with every use. So how many uses will I get before one of these links breaks? I don’t know. All I can do is continue to use this brush and hope that it lasts a while because at about $17 for a replacement brush head, I could be better off buying something else if I keep having to replace these OXO heads.

This could just completely be me worrying too much but only time will tell. I’ll report back to you guys when there is some significant change to this brush.


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Cleaning, Burn In, and Seasoning a New Grill feat. Weber Genesis II E-335

I just picked up the Weber Genesis II E-335 and with a new propane grill, there are a few things that can be done to better your enjoyment with the grill and to help prolong its life. These things include the initial cleaning, burning in, and seasoning. I’ll go over what I did to accomplish these things and although I’m doing my demonstration on a specific Weber, these steps apply to almost any grill.

First, let’s start with the initial cleaning of the grill. From the factory, the manufacturers coat the grills with various oils that can affect your food and possibly make you sick so we want to clean up as much of that as possible. For all the removable parts like the grates, flavorizer bars, and warming rack, I clean them with old-fashioned dish soap and a sponge. Since the grill and I were outside, I just used the garden hose. To me, this part is going to be most important with the parts that actually touch your food. So more attention should be paid to the grilling grates and warming rack. It’s also important to note that with many grills, the various parts are going to be made with some sort of ferrous metal, and for our purposes, that just means that they can rust. So you should not get the parts wet and just let them sit there. You should dry them off somehow. I just had a roll of paper towel nearby to dry off my grill parts.

Once everything is clean and dry, we’re going to reassemble the grill and perform a burn in. This is done by turning the grill on high and letting the intense heat of the grill burn off any residual manufacturing oils. I’ve seen people do this in different ways. Some say to leave the lid open, some say to close it. To me, it makes more sense to close the lid so you can reach higher temperatures and you can let the heat hit everything to a greater degree. The length of time for the burn in is also debatable. The Weber manual actually says to close the lid and burn in for at least 20 minutes. 30 minutes seems to be a pretty standard recommendation so I went with that.

Now that the burn in is complete, we’re going to turn off the grill and let it cool down. At this point, we can season the grill. This means that we’re going to apply a coat of oil to the various surfaces. This will help make things more nonstick and help to prevent rust. For this step, you want to use some sort of high smoke point oil. I’m using avocado oil, but there are plenty of other options. Canola oil is a pretty popular recommendation. Grapseed oil is another good one. Some people just use a potato or onion and rub that around. It just comes down to what you’re comfortable with. You can do your own research on what’s best. If you’re going with an oil, something to consider is liquid or spray form. As you can see here, I’m using liquid oil and am spreading it around with a paper towel. This works, but it takes significantly more time to apply than a spray oil.

With the seasoning, you can basically apply oil to anything on the grill. I’ve seen people oil the entire interior and exterior of the grill. At the end of the day, it’s just a matter of what you’re comfortable with and how much work you want to put in. Oiling up the entire grill will absolutely help to protect it from rust, but what grill you have is going to play a bigger role in that. If you have some super cheap sheet metal grill, it’s likely going to have some rust issues no matter what. With seasoning, I would say the most important parts to cover are those that food is going to touch. So it’s important to season the grilling grates and the warming rack because seasoning will also help prevent food from sticking. Another good place to apply oil to is the inside of the lid as this is one of those places that sees build-ups. Then like I said earlier, everything else is kind of just the cherry on top. The more you cover, the more protected your grill is going to be. Once you’re happy with the coat of oil that you’ve applied to the grill, we’re going to turn it back on high and let it sit for another 30 minutes or so to really bake that oil into all the surfaces. Once that’s done, the seasoning process will be complete and you’re ready to start grilling.

Now, the burn in process is a one-time thing that you only need to do with a brand-new grill. With seasoning, that’s more of a once in awhile, as-needed thing so I can’t give you a time frame. However, it’s probably a good idea to season if you perform a good deep clean of the grill because you’ll probably strip the seasoning after. Aside from that, it’s also good practice to apply some oil to your grill grates before and after cooking to help with the nonstick and rust protection. Especially so if you’re going to be storing the grill for a while.


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Glahoden Retractable Garden Hose Reel 5/8 in x 100 ft

Back when I moved into this house because I knew that I do a lot of yard work and gardening, I wanted to have a decent garden hose setup. After some research, I picked up a Flexzilla hose and a hose reel. The Flexzilla hose is great and I don’t have any complaints. The hose reel, on the other hand, is just one of the ones you can get from Lowe’s. Don’t get me wrong, it does exactly what it’s supposed to, it winds a hose up. However, it’s a very simple design that offers some annoyances. I would say that my main problem with this thing is that although it has a system to guide the hose along, it’s manual so you have to physically wind up the hose and actively guide it from side to side to somewhat evenly distribute the hose across the width of the reel which realistically is pretty hard to do. Well, after almost 2 years of this, I’ve finally decided to upgrade to a retractable hose reel and the one that I’ve gone with is from Glahoden.

Installation of this reel is very straightforward. You’re essentially just mounting up 4 bolts to whichever surface you’ve decided on. These bolts are used to hold up the Glahoden mount, which itself holds the hose reel in place via a pin.

Once you get the hose reel installed, it’s just a matter of hooking it up to the spigot and attaching the multi-pattern spray handle that’s included. This is absolutely one of the easiest installs.

Now, I’ve only used this hose a few times over the past few days but I’m going to straight up say that this is one of the best purchases that I’ve made. The level of convenience that this retractable hose reel has added to my life is indescribable.

To use it, all you have to do is pull the reel out. There’s a ratcheting mechanism in the reel and you can hear it click as you pull the hose out. Each click represents a point where you can let go and it won’t retract or a point where it disengages and will retract. This may sound confusing but is completely intuitive and you get a hold of it after a try or two.

I can easily pull the hose out and water the nearby plants. Then when I’m done, I give it a slight tug and can walk the hose back into the reel. The reel itself does have enough power to pull the hose back in without me walking it back but I just prefer to walk it so I can minimize the hose dragging across my concrete and extend the life of this product.

This reel does have an automatic guide that moves the hose from side to side without any assistance. I’m sure it can malfunction and bind up but I haven’t seen any of that yet. This system is working great to wind the garden hose up.

If you couldn’t tell, I absolutely love this Glahoden hose reel. I’m not saying it’s the best that you can get or anything like that, I’m just saying that it’s functional and the price is great compared to some of the other options. The only thing with this is because it’s not from a super well-known brand, I’m curious to see how long it’ll last. I’ll continue to use it, pretty much every day, and will report back if anything happens with it.


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Building a DIY Wood Slat Privacy Wall

I used to near a farm with the next house being far enough away that I didn’t have to look at anyone. But that changed when a bunch of new development and duplexes went up. Two of which are like 10 feet away from my fence and when I go out my front or back door, I can literally look into their master bedroom.

Well, this isn’t exactly appealing to me especially considering that I want to use my back patio with some privacy. So I’ve decided to put up a privacy wood slat wall. After some thought and planning, I’ve come up with something that works for my situation and I’ll lay out how I’ve done it here. I would say that my situation is a bit unique considering the size that I needed to cover and if it were smaller, I would’ve gone a different route but I’ll get into that later. This blog is more so just going to cover some of the things that I discovered as I did the project, tips and recommendations that I want to share, not so much and exact how to because your situation is going to be different from mine.

Now, this project can be fairly simple and straightforward but it can also be quite complicated depending on how you want to put your slats up. I essentially went what I thought was one of the simplest ways possible and that was to put up two backer boards that I screwed all of my slats into. I did this because I knew that I was going to have to put a bunch of holes into wood. But I didn’t think that this was going to be a long-term or permanent feature of my home so I would rather put the majority of the holes into the backer boards, rather than the pillars of my home.

For my project, I went with 1”x2” sticks for my backer boards. I did this to keep the backer boards as slim and minimal as possible so they’re not super in your face when you look at the final result. I wanted people to focus on the slats, not the boards they’re attached to. However, if you go with the 1”x2”, you’re going to have a very narrow surface area to screw into which can be somewhat difficult and I myself did have a few screws blow out at an angle because I wasn’t holding the drill straight. If you want to make it easier for yourself, I’d recommend going with 2”x2” backer boards. You’ll have a much easier time and more screw placement options. With the 1”x2”, you’re basically screwing into the edge of the board.

For my slats, I decided to use dimensional construction lumber because this was essentially the only option that I had. I needed 10’ long boards so 2x boards were realistically the only option at my local big box stores. I went with 2”x6” because I thought that that would best match my surrounding wood. Had this area been 8’ or less, I would’ve probably gone with cedar fence pickets because that would’ve been available and they’re thinner, lighter weight, and more manageable to work with than trying to put up 2x material. Dimensional lumber also sucks in the sense that it can have a lot of inconsistencies. On the day that I went to buy wood, there were a bunch of bowed and twisted boards so I just got the best that I could and that definitely made things a bit harder as some of these slats just did not want to align properly. So keep that in mind if you’re going to use construction lumber. Pick the best, straightest boards that you can to save yourself some problem-solving time.

In terms of the spacing between my slats, I used pieces of the scrap 1”x2” that I had left over. Of course, the 1”x2” is actually 0.75”x1.5” so my spacing was 0.75”. I would say that this is the maximum gap that I would personally recommend if you’re actually using this slat wall for privacy because even with this, if I really focus on what I’m trying to look at behind the wall, I can shift around and totally make it out. If I were to do this project again, I would probably go with a 0.5” gap, maybe even a 0.25” gap for really good privacy but still having a gap.

Now, I did paint my slats black to match the house and I would say that painting the slats perceptually gave me more privacy. It’s just harder to see through the black slats for whatever reason than leaving the wood raw. So in my situation, having the 0.75” gap ended up not giving up too much privacy,

Speaking of painting, this is something that you should definitely think about when considering gap size. The smaller the gap the harder it’s going to be to paint or apply whatever coating you choose between those slats. If your gap is too small, you’re basically forced to apply the coating before putting all the wood up. Keep that in mind so you don’t have to take everything down, paint, then put it all back up again.

And that’s basically it. Again, a fairly simple project that could be completed in a day. This is a project that I can recommend to DIY rather than paying someone to do it because it’s a fairly easy one to accomplish.


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