Everyday Carry

Timney Alpha Competition Trigger in Ruger RXM – Worth It or Too Light?

If you’ve been keeping up with the channel, you’d know that I’ve been working on a Ruger RXM build, and today we’re going to address my biggest complaint with this gun, and that is the trigger.

For my build, I’ve decided to replace the stock trigger with the Timney Alpha Competition trigger. I actually already own this trigger for regular Gen 3 and 4 glocks, but that doesn’t fit into the RXM, even though the RXM is based on the Gen 3 platform. That’s because the RXM utilizes a proprietary trigger housing. So Timney had to rework their insert to make it work inside the RXM trigger housing. 

At this point, I’ve had the chance to shoot this gun with the Timney trigger in it, and it’s a night and day difference. I personally don’t like triggers that have a lot of travel after the wall. I can deal with it, but I find the stock trigger to be somewhat harder to control because it has a heavier pull and break weight. That doesn’t really matter when shooting at a normal pace or faster, but it was frustrating when I slowed down to say zero in a red dot or trying to shoot small targets far away. The Timney trigger makes things a whole lot more predictable, as there’s much less travel after the wall, and you can reliably tell when the trigger will break. The Timney, by design, also actively helps with trigger resets with its included trigger shoe return spring, which can help you to shoot faster. 

Now, if you’re going to be using this gun for EDC, people are probably going to bring up the concern that the Timney is advertised as a competition trigger with a light 3lb pull weight. And that can be a legit concern if you don’t put in the time to train with the Timney. It is light and you can pretty easily blow through the wall. Personally, I already owned the Johnny Glocks Timney Combat Conversion kit, which if you’re unaware, are additional parts from the company Johnny Custom Glocks, which essentially add extra weight to the original Timney. Not all the parts are transferable from the Johnny Glocks kit, but at the very least, the connector and striker spring will. I decided to put in the 6lbs striker spring with my setup. That’s heavier than the stock spring, which the internet generally says is about 5.5lbs. Doing this is supposed to bring the pull weight up to 4-4.5lbs, and the wall is now stout. I can still pull through it when I want, but I can definitely tell where the wall is and can stop on it controllably. 

This is actually my third Timney trigger, and honestly, it’s not my favorite. In the past, it just didn’t feel all that great to me. I don’t know what it is about this combination of parts, but they’ve moved this trigger up on my list, and I think it is actually my favorite trigger setup of all that I own for the Glock platform. The best way that I can put it is that the trigger is light, but predictable. I’m just in love with this setup right now and it’s actually what I’ve been grabbing for just general dry fire practice, simply because I want to shoot with this trigger setup. 

In terms of pricing, the Timney is actually one of the more affordable options for the RXM at a retail price of about $100. Personally, I got mine on sale somewhere in the $80 range, so again, quite competitively priced considering that you are getting an entire trigger system with the Timney, rather than just small trigger parts replacements like some other sellers are offering for around the same price. But of course, I’m also utilizing some parts from the Johnny Glocks Timney Combat Conversion Kit and that will run you $72 plus shipping if you want to pick that up. Again, I bought my conversion kit years ago and am just reusing it. If you want a recommendation, I would say to run just the regular Timney first and see how you feel about it. If you think it’s too light, then I would consider adding the conversion kit. But if you want to save a lot of money and not get the conversion kit, just get yourself a striker spring kit from some other manufacturer and play with that. Depending on the weight you use, you’ll be able to obtain a heavier pull and a more defined wall. Again, I’m currently running a 6lb striker spring, and that’s working well, but I’m still experimenting and might try some lighter springs in the future. 

Overall, the Timney Alpha Competition trigger is, in my opinion, much better than the stock trigger, in general, but with the added small parts from Johnny Glocks, this trigger setup is next level to me, and this is an upgrade that I wish I had done sooner. 


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Seiko SSC961 – The BIG Change No One Is Talking About (Better Than SSC813)

After lusting after this watch for a while, I finally decided to pick up the Seiko Seitona panda dial chronograph, the updated SSC961, which recently replaced the very popular SSC813. Now, I’m not going to go too in-depth about the watch in terms of specs because that’s covered by basically every reviewer, and as far as I know, they didn’t change from the SSC813 to this SSC961. So if you’re interested, you can read the specs for yourself.

What I do want to cover are some of the updates or changes that don’t seem to be listed or talked about. 

I just want to start by saying that from the videos that I’ve seen on YouTube about the SSC961 specifically, they seem to portray that this is basically the exact same watch as the SSC813, but made in a different factory. However, based on the many SSC813 videos that I’ve seen leading up to the purchase of my SSC961, I want to address a major change that will help you guys in deciding to buy this watch or not, and that is with the solar subdials.

In many of the videos about the SSC813, reviewers would point out that, because the subdials are themselves the solar cells that are utilized to capture light and help keep this watch running for so long, they give off a blueish/purplish tint, something that stands out on a watch that is predominantly white and black. Reviewers would mention that they wish that the subdials were actually black.


I can say that in my copy of the SSC961, I can’t see any blue or purple tint to the subdials. You can tell that they aren’t pitch black like the painted-on markers on the rest of the watch face, but they do seem to be a lighter shade of black. Imagine something is black but semi-transparent. That rich black tone is just knocked down a bit. I hope that makes sense. 

The other thing that I’ve noticed is that with the SSC813, you can actually see defined lines in the subdial as if that’s part of the solar cells. That was a slight annoyance for me because it’s somewhat unsightly and just takes away from the watch’s general look and appearance. However, I can say that with my SSC961, those lines are no longer there. 

So, with the updated SSC961, we seemingly get a more accurate black and white panda dial as the subdials no longer feature a blue/purple tint and the seam lines are also gone. I can’t speak for you, but those previous concerns about the solar subdials were a part of my buying decision and what made me hold off on the SSC813 for so long. So the updates with the SSC961 are greatly appreciated. 

Unfortunately for me, my particular watch has to go back, and hopefully I can get an exchange because this one actually has a spec of white dust right on the black seconds subdial, which is kind of annoying because it’s one of those things that now that I know is there, my eyes automatically look for it. 


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Seiko SSC961

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Full Send Ruger RXM Build Part 2 | Norsso Piranha Ported Slide & E Port Barrel



I recently picked up the Ruger RXM and fully intended to do a heavily modified build which is made especially easy considering that the RXM is based off of a Gen 3 Glock. So much so that the entire upper assembly can be directly taken from a Glock without any changes. 

Case in point, my brand new upper assembly all from Norsso out of Las Vegas. This particular one is the N19 Piranha Ported Slide for Glock 19 Gen 3 and 4 with RMR cut and in Black DLC. I’ve personally built a decent amount of Glocks and Glock clones over the years, and I’ve looked at a lot of aftermarket slides from various companies, and I’m going to say without a doubt that the Piranha slides from Norsso are my favorite purely from an aesthetics standpoint. I love the way this thing looks. It’s super aggressive with all the design choices from the serrations to the cutouts in the nose. Front to back, this slide is gorgeous in my opinion. 

If you look back at my YouTube channel, I actually made a build in the past with another Piranha slide, but the non-ported version. But even back then, I wanted this ported version with the top cutout but didn’t go with it back then because I didn’t necessarily want a port on top for no reason. But since that video, Norsso has come out with multiple ported barrels and one that would be able to utilize this slide cut is this E port barrel.  This particular one is the N19 Gen 3-5 9mm E Port Barrel in the copper TiCN Titanium Carbo-Nitride coating. Again, just a beautiful color. I’m a sucker for stuff in the realm of a copper or bronze colorway so this was a no brainer for me. When we put this barrel into the slide, you can see that it’s a perfect pairing. The barrel and ports both seat and align properly. 

Moving to the smaller parts, I have some blacked-out Angry Bear Arms suppressor height sights that are meant to be lower third cowitness height when paired with something like a Trijicon RMR or SRO. These sights are an add on option on the Norsso website and they do have others if you don’t like these, but the blacked out sights were recommended because if you go with the ported setup, all the expelled carbon will just cover the front sights and black them out anyway so no point in spending extra on the other options that feature night sights with different colors. 

Internally, I’m running stock Glock parts, which are recommended by Norsso as that’s what their slides are designed around. 

Again, this entire upper assembly, including the sights and internals, all came from and were installed by Norsso. The only thing that I didn’t get from them to complete this upper is the recoil spring and that’s because I’m running the KynSHOT hydraulic guide rod. This thing makes a lot of bold claims, like reducing recoil by 70%. I’ve run this spring before, and I wouldn’t necessarily say that I believe that, but one claim that has worked for me is the claim that with this spring, you don’t have to do any tuning when it comes to changing out springs. If you didn’t know, when you run a suppressor, compensator, or ported barrel, you may have some reliability issues or failures that may revolve around the strength of your recoil assembly, which you may have to adjust. With the KynSHOT being a hydraulic system, it supposedly self-adjusts and so far, I can only say that I haven’t had issues with this spring on other setups that have some sort of change in barrel pressure. 

Lastly, this slide is cut with the RMR footprint. I have a few optics sitting around that I can use with this, including a Trijicon SRO, Holosun 509T, and an Osight XR. I’m leaning towards the SRO or XR, but this might be a build that I try a few different options out before settling on one. 

Overall, I’m impressed with this upper assembly. I took it to the range and had no failures within the first couple of hundred rounds. It does surprisingly well at reducing recoil and this is definitely one of the nicest feeling compact-sized guns I own. I’m excited to keep building off of this gun with some more mods so subscribe to my YouTube channel for future updates!


This product was provided at no cost for review. My opinions are honest and independent. The manufacturer did not influence or preview this video.

https://norsso.com/


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Full Send Ruger RXM Build Part 1

I can easily say that my favorite gun platform is the Glock 19 and a lot of that is because of aftermarket support which allows me to put together different builds. Which is why I’m extremely excited about and decided to pick up the RXM, which of course is not a Glock, but a Glock clone from Ruger working off the gen 3 Glock platform. The particular one I own is a compact size so based off of a Glock 19. 

To me, the interesting thing about the RXM is the fact that it has a removable serialized fire control insert, as Ruger calls it. I love it when guns have this feature because it allows you to take the insert out and put it into different frames or chassis without having to actually buy a new registered firearm, like you would with a traditional Glock, which has the serial number on the frame. With this, the FCI is itself serialized, and because it’s removable, I can take it out of my compact-size grip and put it into a full size or Glock 17 size grip and have something like a Glock 19X or 45. Or I can take the FCI out and put it into something like the Flux Raider, a PDW chassis, and get a completely different type of gun. That’s what makes me really excited about the RXM. I like the FCI idea and I’ve been waiting for it to come to the Glock platform, even if Glock isn’t directly giving it to us. 

It should be noted that Zev has the OZ9 line of firearms, which is another Glock clone platform with a removable fire control unit. I actually owned the OZ9 Hypercomp a few years ago, but got rid of it because the Zev fire control unit wasn’t going anywhere. No one was really doing anything with it, but things are seemingly going to be different for the RXM. Reputable companies have already announced things in the works and that’s why I decided to get into this platform now. 

To be perfectly honest, other than the FCI, I think the RXM is a fine gun but to me it is just another Glock clone. Again, taking the FCI out of the equation, everything else is kind of bland and ok. I don’t think it offers anything too wild or mind-blowing. It’s actually pretty average. The trigger is ok, the grip is ok, the slide is ok. The slide milling is pretty tame. It’s sort of like a slightly remixed stock Glock slide with some front and rear serrations, a little ledge that runs along the side, and that’s about it. It’s not heavily milled as you’d get from say Shadow Systems, but that can be about 3X the price. The lower, again, is ok. If you’ve purchased a Magpul AR grip, then you have a pretty good idea of what this RXM grip feels like. I personally don’t like this compact grip that much because I feel that of the Glock 19 lowers that I’ve tried, this is probably the shortest one. My hand just barely fits 3 fingers on it. I also don’t like the extra large cutout in the lower bottom. I realize there was a reason for that, I just don’t personally appreciate it. 

To me, nothing really stands out about this gun. Even being MSRP at a starting price around $400 is also kind of average. There are certainly cheaper options like the PSA Dagger. So personally, nothing would really make me want to buy the RXM except for the FCI. That completely changes the game and is where the excitement really comes into play for me.

I hope you subscribe to my YouTube and stick around because I have some crazy parts coming in for this build. Basically, everything about this gun is going to be modified except for the two take down pins and bracket that holds the FCI in place. Again, stick around because things are going to be changing quickly. 


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Jagerwerks BROS vs C&H Precision SRO Protective Shroud

Over the past few years, I’ve been carrying with the Trijicon SRO, and it seems to be a pretty well-received optic. Generally, the only downside people mention is durability because if you drop your gun and hit the SRO from any decent height, it’ll probably crack. The circular design just isn’t that durable, but Trijicon never advertised this as an ultra-durable option. They market it for competition shooting.

That said, people like me who love the large window still EDC with it. When I do, I’ve almost always carried it with the Jagerwerks BROS, which is a protective shroud for the SRO. However, I recently discovered that C&H Precision also makes something similar, so I purchased it to try out.


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