DIY

CHEAP DIY Floating Shelves

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

My office wall has been pretty bare and I’ve been contemplating what to hang on it for a while. I ultimately decided on some floating shelves and I was originally going to buy some but for the size of shelf that I was going for, some of the cost that I saw were ridiculous. So in this blog, I want to share with you how I went about making my own for a very affordable price.

First, let’s start with the wood. I wanted 3 shelves that are 4’ long and 8” wide. From experience, I knew that construction lumber would probably be the cheapest option so I just went to my local Lowe’s. Here, the cheapest option was some 2”x8”x8’ Hemlock for $12.53. This is cheap but was my second choice. I was really going for some 2”x8”x8’ Douglas Fir which would cut the price by more than in half at $4.98 a board. I would need (2) 8’ boards and that would give me (4) 4’ shelves. With Hemlock, that would equate to about $3.13 a shelf but had my Lowe’s had the Douglas Fir in stock, the shelves would’ve only cost about $1.25 a shelf, making it VERY affordable.

Now, I’m no professional woodworker. I just know enough to get things done for my own personal projects. And for this project, I experimented with some stuff that I’ve never used before so I don’t want to give any outright recommendations. I’m just going to show you what I did and give some thoughts.

Again, I wanted (4) 4’ shelves so I ripped the 8’ boards down to size with a miter saw. For this project, I decided to make black shelves because that would best match the color scheme of the room. There’s a variety of ways to make the shelves black but I decided to try MinWax True Black oil-based stain, something I’ve never used before.

In preparation for the stain, I sanded the boards first with 150 grit sandpaper, then 220 grit. This is to get a smoother more presentable finish on the final product and to help the stain soak into the wood. But, I did purposely pick lumber that had more character and imperfections as I was going for a farmhouse aesthetic, so I did try too hard to get a perfect finish.

Once I was happy with the sanding, I moved on to the staining process. To start, I applied a coat of pre-stain. This product helps to distribute the stain more evenly so less blotching occurs with the stain. I have had blotching problems with hemlock in the past so pre-stain is something that I personally now use. The pre-stain itself is very quick and easy to apply. I just used a foam brush to spread it around. The directions say to let it sit for 5-15 minutes, then apply your stain within 2 hours.

Moving on to the actual staining, again, I used Minwax True Black oil-based stain. I’ve been looking for a way to ebonize wood and now that I’ve tried this product, I would say that it’s a very viable option. I don’t know if you can tell, but it comes out jet black like you’re dumping ink on the wood. It may look like much at first but it does thin up a bit when dried and you can still see all the figures in the wood. This is my first time trying this product and I would recommend to not apply a heavy application like I did because it does spread quite well and if you go heavy, this stuff takes a while to dry. It didn’t help that I was doing all this in a cold garage during winter so it took about a day to dry between coats. I did two coats to achieve the look that I wanted so that was two days of just waiting.

Then we move on to applying a finish. I used MinWax polyurethane and the same as before, I just spread it on with a foam brush. Once that’s dried, we can move on to mounting these shelves up.

Now there’s not really much to this step as it really depends on your application and how you want to mount them. I ended up doing three staggered shelves. I went with some brackets that I found on Amazon, which are linked in the description below, and they work just fine but if you go with the same brackets, I would recommend finding your own hardware because the ones that these brackets came with are complete trash. The heads stripped so easily and I had 3 screws that just snapped in half. There are two screws that are broken in my wall where I hit a stud and one that’s lodged at the bottom of a shelf. This shearing happened even with a pilot hole so I would definitely recommend buying your own hardware if possible.

And that’s about it. Some potentially very cheap DIY floating shelves. Depending on the materials that you already have, this project can potentially be very cheap, I mean, like less than $10 if you have the know-how. I bought my brackets because I wanted this look but you can make your own which can bring the cost down even lower. It all depends on what you're going for. Then to spice things up, you can add LED lighting or whatever else to make the shelves really stand out. I’m still working through decorating and what I’m actually using these shelves for so this isn’t finalized.


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Floating Shelf Brackets https://amzn.to/3RvUq7X


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Kobalt Quiet Tech Air Compressor High Flow Coupler Upgrade

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

I recently showcased the Kobalt Quiet Tech Air Compressor that I recently purchased and in this blog, I’m going to show you the first upgrade that I did to it and that’s switching the stock industrial-sized couplers for a high-flow option. The particular couplers that I’ll be using are the Milton HighFlow Pro V Style, part number S-765.

According to Milton’s packaging, this upgrade can provide an airflow increase of up to 70%.

To remove the stock couplers, I’ve found that the easiest way is to just get a wrench in from the bottom and loosen the couplers from there. Lefty loosey, righty tighty. It’s kind of annoying doing this upgrade because there’s little clearance anywhere. You might have the urge to remove the top plate but, just take my word, there are various parts that are screwed to it. You may have more access by removing the plate but then you’ll have parts dangling and I think it would be even more difficult to torque everything down that way. So, just take your time and do a little turn at a time from the bottom.

When you get the coupler out, it’s just a matter of replacing it with the new high-flow coupler. Just remember to use some Teflon tape or other thread sealers to help prevent leaks.

Now, to really maximize airflow gains, you’re going to want to also upgrade your other fittings. I purchased a Milton kit, part number S-217 and it has the various fittings that you’ll need to connect a hose to the air compressor and tools to your hose. Then if you need more male fittings for tool connections, they are readily available online and at a very affordable price.

And that’s about it. This is a very easy install with a lot of potential gains depending on your setup. Not all tools will be able to capitalize on the increased airflow but that’s just how it is. Do your research and figure out if higher-flowing couplers can benefit your setup.


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Milton Industries S-765 HI-Flo V-Style Couplers https://amzn.to/3Y4CXWd

Milton S-217 1/4" NPT V Style Coupler and Plug Kit https://amzn.to/3DhjgCr

Milton Industries 760 1/4" MNPT HIGHFLOWPRO™ V-Style Fittings https://amzn.to/3jfc6rJ


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DIY 3D Wood Slat Wall Art

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

Observant viewers will notice that there is a new addition to the background. This is a 3D wood art piece that I recently made and I’m going to show you guys how I made it.

First, let’s start with wood selection. For my personal build, the foundation was a 2’x4’ sheet of OSB. Because I knew whatever was going to be in the background is going to be visible, I went with OSB because it naturally has that 3D layered look. Now, just a heads up. I purchased a precut 2’x4’ piece but if you want to save money. Definitely buy a regular 4’x8’ sheet because, at the time of this video, that only costs about $11 and the 2’x4’ sheet cost about $19. I was in a rush and haven’t moved my table saw to the new shop yet so I didn’t feel like cutting and really paid the cost. This is definitely not recommended but you do what you gotta do.

Next, we’re going to pick up the wood that makes up the various 3D slats. For this, I personally went with 3 different wood species to give more variation in the final product. If you want something more cohesive in look, maybe buy the same wood for everything.

I personally went with:
(2) 1”x2”x8’ Douglas Fir
(2) 1”x2”x8’ Hemlock
(1) 1”x2”x6’ Poplar
(1) 1”x2”x10’ Poplar

These 6 boards gave me pretty much the exact amount of wood needed for the entire inner 3D pieces.

Next for the frame, I went with (2) 2”x2”x8’ boards of Douglas Fir. This left me with about 3-ish feet of spare material so you can buy less but I knew that I needed the spare just because of how I planned to cut the wood to get certain pieces of the boards.

Other materials needed will include paint, painting supplies, wood strain or finish, wood glue, and various things to use the previously mentioned materials. I’m not getting super-specific right now because you can definitely go with something different and I’ll go over what I used later in this video.

Let’s get started with actually creating this piece. Again, I have a precut 2’x4’ piece of OSB so I didn’t have to cut that down. I actually started with the frame. For this, I went with a pretty straightforward approach by just laying the board over the OSB and marking my corners. I went with an overlapping design that gave me only one exposed wood edge per corner. This takes a few extra cuts but I thought that it would look better.

Next, let’s move on to the inner slats. For this, I started out by doing a rough eyeball estimation of how long I wanted the pieces to be. Remember, there are going to be wood slats coming from both ends so just make sure to leave some empty space in the middle. I was able to pretty quickly figure out what sizes I needed and just started to rip all the boards down with little thought. Remember though, you can take away material but you can’t add it back very easily. So, if you have a bunch of long pieces, you can always cut them down. But if you have a bunch of short pieces, you’re pretty much stuck with them unless you want to try to glue everything back together or buy more wood.

Throughout my cutting process, I would stop and just gauge how much more wood I would need. In the end, it turned out that I needed everything that I purchased. But how many slats are needed is largely going to be determined by how many pieces you’re going to lay on the narrow end. If you have a bunch of vertical pieces, you may need to pick up some more wood.

Once I got everything cut and have an idea of the layout, I moved on to painting. For this, I used an 8-ounce can of Krylon Satin Black paint. I purchased this purely because it was the smallest can and the cheapest paint that I could find. I personally don’t feel that this is the type of piece that I would want to overspend to get good paint because I honestly don’t know how long I’ll keep this thing. You may be different. Just consider what this piece is going to be for. Also, I went with black because it matches the theme of the room and the house. You can definitely go with something different. Now, I will say that with the 8-ounce can, it was pretty much the perfect amount to get everything I needed covered. It was definitely close so don’t go too heavy-handed. Go light and cover everything that you know will be visible, then go back and touch up if needed later.

Now that everything’s painted and dry, we’re going to glue everything down. For my build, I just went pretty quick with the glue. For the frame, I took the time to spread it out to get good coverage but with the slats, I just ran a bead down the center and called it good. This is definitely not the ideal way to apply wood glue but I knew that this piece was going on a wall and no one will be touching it so I wasn’t too worried about my glue job. I knew that it would hold up just fine and it did. In the end, the finished piece is going to be decently heavy and I was able to pick it up by the frame with no problem at all. However, because I purposely chose wood that had a bit more character, one of the frame boards was bowed in one corner. So, I decided to hit it with a brad nail and while I was at it, I did the rest of the perimeter. This was more for cosmetic reasons and had the bow not been there, I wouldn’t have bothered because everything was plenty sturdy with just wood glue.

I do want to mention that I did use some Danish oil to darken some of the slats. This was done to give me some extra variations. I oiled probably less than 10 slats and the rest are just bare wood. You’ll have to use your own judgment and decide if you want to do anything with your project. I left most of the slats unfinished because that’s the look I was going for. For me, this is supposed to be an imperfect piece. There’s wood with knots, dents, cracks, and various other things. I purposefully did as little fixing up as possible because I wanted the imperfections and actually highlighted it by my choice of wood.

Finally, because this piece is heavier than the typical picture frame, I decided to go with a bracket to hang it up. Hillman makes this one. It is 6” long and is rated for 75lbs. This is my first time using this type of hanger but it works a lot like a French cleat if you’re familiar with that. It seems to work just fine and is holding my piece up with no problem.

And that’s about it. This is a fairly simple and straightforward build that most people shouldn’t have any problems finishing. Obviously in this video you saw me using some power tools but this is the type of project that you can get everything done with just hand tools. It’ll be a lot of extra work with cutting especially with all the slats but it can definitely be done.


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